PUBLISHED November 10th, 2015 02:00 am | UPDATED January 19th, 2016 02:35 pm
Located on the quieter end of Syed Alwi Road, the newly opened Hotel Vagabond is home to 5th Quarter; the latest jewel in the crown of Loh Lik Peng’s Unlisted Collection.
Hotel Vagabond’s lobby is outrageously outlandish, to the extent we applaud them for having the courage to actualise the blueprints. Filled with quirky ornamentations such as a life-sized golden rhinoceros (acting as the lobby’s front desk), the eccentricities extend on to the interior of 5th Quarter, which sits behind the lobby enveloped by plush red velvet curtains.
Interior of 5th Quarter
Instead of the usual menu template of starters, mains and desserts, 5th Quarter segments all its dishes under different kinds of preparation methods. For example, the Chef Selection of 5 types of Charcuterie ($18) – inspired by the childhood of Executive Chef Drew Nocente (formerly of W Hotel) – is featured under the salted & hung section of the menu. The other subcategories include: fermented, fried, braised, smoked, brined, cured etc.
Chef Drew Nocente
Unfortunately, the charcuterie platter is not the best example of 5th Quarter’s brilliance, except for the sheet of delicious lardo (strips of fatback from a pig). Go for the Beef Tongue with Onion & Wasabi ($12) instead; where mouth-watering, flavourful slices of tongue tissue are delightfully drizzled with droplets of wasabi. Cured for two weeks and smoked for four hours, the Pastrami with Egg & Celeriac ($12) is another gorgeous starter – think savoury bits of pastrami standing imposingly over a viscous glob of eggy goodness. Magnificent.
5 types of Charcuterie
The Salt ‘n’ Pepper Tripe ($12) is another indication of Drew Nocente’s culinary ingenuity. Sous vide then fried, the ox tripe (offal from stomach) was gloriously addictive, and is the perfect companion for a pint of beer or two.
Salt ‘n’ Pepper Tripe
Surprisingly veering away from Western flavours, the Pork Belly with Melon & Onion ($12) is slightly Chinese in style. Not that we’re complaining of course. Tender, sweet, and sinful, we loved how the pork flesh was lavishly doused with bouts of soy and brandy.
The Black Mash ($8) with squid ink is a decent option if you want a saltier (and tastier) alternative to the standard mash potato. However, something that walks the tightrope between classic and adventurous at the same time would be the Tomato with Burrata & Basil ($12). Drenched in fresh tomato water, the refreshing and fresh burrata paired perfectly with the peeled tomatoes which oozed a smoky-flavoured juice when we sank our teeth into it.
Pork Belly with Melon & Onion
Moving on to the mains, the Pork Collar with Radishes & Praline ($32) was solid without being spectacular. After the intriguing starters, we couldn’t help but feel that it became a little flat and characterless after the first few bites. Luckily, the Short Rib with Carrot & Pomegranate ($36) brought the standards back up, way up. Smoky and delicious, the best way to enjoy this dish is to eat the succulent meat, crunchy carrots, and that splendid pomegranate sauce together.
Pork Collar with Radishes & Praline
The cooking methods utilised by 5th Quarter’s is infinitely different from most of the restaurants in Singapore – but that’s exactly why they stand out and why there’s a lot to love at this Unlisted Collection establishment.