PUBLISHED October 1st, 2024 06:00 am | UPDATED October 11th, 2024 10:59 pm
As someone who loves city comforts, the idea of spending a few nights without air conditioning definitely made me hesitate. Especially when I’d be “stranded” on a hot, tropical island off the east coast of Bintan, Indonesia. But since Cempedak Island is all about that island getaway vibe—picture white, powdery sand and crystal-clear waters—sunscreen, sweating it out, and making friends with the six-legged locals felt like part of the deal. Although we prepped with insect repellent, a handheld fan, and even cooling body spray, they all stayed tucked away in my luggage as we soaked up three days of island paradise.
Our journey began with a 50-minute ferry ride from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal to Bandar Bentan Telani Ferry Terminal in Bintan. Thanks to our reservations at Cempedak Island, we didn’t have to join the snaking queue at the customs; instead, we left our passports with the hosts and waited comfortably at the lounge for customs clearance. After an hour’s drive by car and a 30-minute speedboat transfer, we caught a glimpse of the crescent-shaped villas that would be our home for the next two nights.
In the Villas
From the gentle sways of the alang alang (thatch) on the roof to its dramatic curves and architecture, these two-storey villas are built entirely from bamboo and recycled teak. Not only do they keep the space cool, they seem to fit in with its verdant surroundings. There are only 20 of them on this 17-hectare island and each is thoughtfully spaced out for privacy —so much so that walls are almost non-existent. Yes, you read that right—there are no walls, not in the bedroom, not even in the bathroom (there are doors though!). The open design catches the sea breeze, keeping the villas fresh and airy.
Its spaciousness also allows for a generous layout – an expansive living area and outdoor deck with a private plunge pool on the first floor and a grand spiral staircase leading up to the second floor. Upstairs, the four-poster king-size bed and the semi-open bathroom peered out into the South China Sea, so we took baths with a grand view and let the gentle lapping of waves soothed us to sleep. The villas are strategically positioned for sunrise and sunset with beachfront and sea views, so let the friendly staff know your preference when you make your reservations.
This also means being open to the elements of nature. Although the sliding doors are typically closed during the evening’s turndown service, they don’t completely block out the rain during heavy downpours. When the Sumatra Squall made its way to the Riau Islands, after sweeping through Singapore, it completely drenched a couple of villas. But this didn’t stand in the way of the super-efficient team who dried and cleaned everything in the villa while the guests were having their dinner. And when they returned, it was like nothing ever happened. But if you would like to avoid the monsoon season, the best time to visit will be around April to October.
Even though the villas are cradled in lush greenery, we didn’t see creepy crawlies in the villa. This could be due to the meticulously treated bamboo structures designed to keep the bugs at bay—or maybe it’s the insect-repellent-infused moisturiser from the bathroom that we’ve been generously applying to our skin. Or the fact that the villas are well-maintained – the thatch roof is replaced once every seven years. But what we did see from our villa were majestic hawks soaring through the blue sky, a myriad of smaller birds flitting from tree to tree, and not forgetting the devoted hornbills calling out for their partners – ask the staff, they’ll be happy to tell you stories of resident hornbills!
Eat Fresh and Healthy
The full board package includes three nutritious meals a day at the main restaurant which brings modern Indonesian flavours to the tables. Depending on seasonal availability, you’ll enjoy everything from rice, noodles, and curries to kuehs and tropical desserts. Remember to ask for the sambal for an extra kick! You can always ask for more portions or switch things up if you have any dietary restrictions or preferences, just let the staff know in advance. With so many guests asking about the recipes, they’ve even launched a cookbook “Island Life: Recipes from Nikoi and Cempedak,” so you can enjoy a taste of paradise at home.
For those who want to venture out a little more, order picnic hampers for a romantic day out on one of the nearby islands. And for those looking for a nightcap, the Dodo Bar is your place to go.
Sea and Land Activities
Between watching the sunrise and relaxing with a massage at the spa, guests can engage in land sports like tennis, hiking, and archery, or spend the day windsurfing, kayaking, and snorkelling in the clear waters. Most equipment is provided free of charge, except for advanced activities such as diving, rock climbing, catamaran sailing and more. Take time for the guided nature walk to familiarise yourself with the landscape and to meet some of the friendly locals like the Pangolins, Silver Leaf Monkeys, Sea Otters, Hornbills, Dugongs, Turtles and Nicobar Pigeons, if you are lucky enough.
Respect for the Land and People
From their choice of building materials to their daily practice and community involvement, it was clear to us that Cempedak Island, unlike typical eco-resorts, is committed to responsible tourism. Beyond ESG goals, the resort is built on a profound respect for the environment and the community. It seeks to provide “simple barefoot luxury” while creating a positive long-term impact on its surroundings. They run The Island Foundation, an international charitable organisation that works to enhance learning environments in Indonesia’s small island and coastal communities by promoting education for sustainability.
Besides using locally sourced materials and ingredients, the resort is powered with solar energy and has its farms for vegetables, chickens, and black soldier flies. Yes flies! The flies play a huge role in composting food waste, while some of its larvae become food for the chickens. They have a conservation team on the island that actively monitors the local flora and fauna, even patrolling the shores to protect sea turtle eggs. Beyond the shores, they educate nearby communities, successfully curbing harmful practices like hunting dugongs for their tusks, believed to cure asthma. Recommend taking the educational tour to learn more about their sustainable practices.
It is true; “almost everything will work again if you unplug it for a few minutes, including you.” Especially you. And this private sanctuary is, perhaps, one of the best ways to unplug from city life and people (maximum of 40 guests on the island), especially the little ones, since the minimum age to stay is 16 years old.
Cempedak Island is located at Air Gelubi, Bintan Pesisir, Bintan Regency, Riau Islands, Indonesia, p. +62 811-7008-040. Full board packages start from S$1,750 per person for 4D3N stay.