PUBLISHED June 10th, 2017 08:23 pm
For the Chinese, traditional Cantonese dining always brings to mind a certain timeless elegance. The nostalgic clatter of china tableware, the periodic spinning of a Lazy Susan, and the invigorating fragrance of fresh pu-erh being poured into a cup brings back fond memories of exuberant family celebrations. That said, it might be difficult to imagine something better when I say that Jade Restaurant, at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore, introduces a new kind of experience – one of poetic luxury and art.
Over the last nine years, Jade has offered diners here an exceptional standard of Cantonese fare and more-than-cordial service, earning itself the same revered reputation of its precious gemstone namesake. Its recent revamp in April, however, brings a more focused culinary direction and a shiny new interior inspired by an art piece made by Executive Chinese Chef Leong Chee Yang – who doubles up as a painter and ceramist during his free time – himself.
The work in question is an old gelatin centrepiece depicting birds perching on a small tree – a motif that’s reflected across Jade’s new specially commissioned wallpaper. There are loris, sunbirds, kingfishers, and several other birds local to Singapore, to which I must confess I’ve never been able to recognise. Along with several evocative low-hanging lanterns overhead and oriental-style carpeting, the restaurant’s new jade colour palette reflects its lustre comparatively better than the orangey hue of yesteryears.
Inspired by the fabled ‘eight treasures’ as told in old Tang Dynasty works, there’s the Crispy Pork Belly ($14) with mustard sauce, marinated overnight with five-spice powder, salt, and sugar before being roasted several times for a total of 90 minutes: first till the top layer is slightly crispy, then removed to puncture the skin with holes to allow better flavour absorption; and again for an overall roast. The cut selected has a satisfying balance of fat and meat, which can probably get rather cloying otherwise.
If you’re a fan of char siew, you should try the Baked Lemongrass Char Siew Lamb Rib Loin ($23) – New Zealand ribs marinated with housemade sauce (fermented bean sauce, sugar, and dark soy sauce), topped with bruised lemongrass, and barbequed while intermittently glazed with honey. Despite my doubts, the slightly gamey lamb successfully marries the savouriness of the sauce to a meaty harmony, and you’ll want to use your hands for this. You may also like the Sautéed Beef Tenderloin with Crispy Garlic ($23), seasoned wagyu beef coated with corn flour and pan-fried to a perfect medium well. The accompanying dollop of black pepper sauce is splendidly spicy, made with both roasted and crushed black peppercorn, oyster, and soy sauce.
There’s also the extravagant Simmered Egg Noodle with Boston Lobster ($39), which sees a generous half lobster deep-fried with corn flour, then simmered with pork lard and both light and dark soy sauce for a maximum flavour. This comes with wonton noodles, prepared in a style reminiscent of Kuala Lumpur’s dark-sauced Hokkien noodles – prawn head oil, garlic, shallots, pork lard and all, accompanied with a housemade XO chilli sauce.
Dessert is a variation on the popular tong sui (Cantonese-style dessert – typically a sweet soup or custard) of Hot Almond Cream mixed with deliciously poached egg whites. But it is the Pistachio Muah Chee ($8 for two pieces) that takes the cake, or should I say, pastry. To make this, premium green pistachios are first roasted, grounded till fine, and blended with granulated sugar. The muah chee pastry itself is a blend of two flours and starch, perfectly soft for wrapping around the sweet nutty filling that you’ll be craving for days to come after the last bite.
I hear Jade has a delightful weekend dim sum brunch menu (at an affordable $39 per person, no less) as well, and we’ll be back soon to try that. Until then, there you have it: an artsy ambience with light touches of Singapore’s heritage and some great modern Cantonese cuisine.
Jade Restaurant is located 1 Fullerton Square, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore, Singapore 049178 , p. +65 6877 8911. Open daily 11.30am – 3pm, 6.30pm – 11pm.