PUBLISHED March 20th, 2017 03:28 pm
Choosing a singular national dish to represent Singapore from our repertoire of local eats is a largely impossible feat; but we reckon satay – juicy meat skewers grilled over charcoal – stands a decent chance of earning that honour.
Prior to independence (before 1965), the hawkers of the original Satay Club fed tens of thousands of hungry customers along Beach Road before moving to the Esplanade in 1971. Again in the mid-90s, demolition to make way for new projects threatened to end their legacy, but the Satay Club endeavoured to continue producing its fragrant fumes with numerous reincarnations along the Singapore River. One of those spots at the nightlife destination Clarke Quay, now houses the new Violet Oon Satay Bar & Grill.
That said, with the success of other ventures at Bukit Timah and National Gallery, it’s no surprise that a third concept has emerged from culinary doyenne Violet Oon. The restaurant pays tribute to the beloved sticks from Violet’s childhood memories, accompanied with fiery sauces and again, in her classic style, signature Nyonya dishes and small bites.
Stepping inside, it becomes apparent that this is no ordinary satay joint. Dark wooden panels line the walls and ceiling, while hanging lamps light up the otherwise dim room. Near the entrance, a large bar with counter seats is decked out in a nostalgic pandan leaf green. The decor is sleek and stylish, but with charming yesteryear vibes.
There are five types of satays on offer, spiced and sweetened up with a time-tested blend of freshly ground lemon grass, lengkuas, chillies, shallots, coriander powder, and cumin powder. Paired with the veritable peanut sauce – topped with a dollop of fresh pineapple puree – each bite is a fantastic balance of flavours, with just the slight zestiness for some vibrancy.
Granted, the meats are far from cheap. The popular options of Chicken and Pork Tenderloin – executed exceptionally well with crisp layers of fat squeezed in between – go at $13 and $16 respectively for three sticks. But that’s the price to be paid for quality; and those gorgeous overhead rattan blade fans reminiscent of old satay fans. Plus, you get to watch your meal being grilled in front of you – behind a glass wall – with none of the heat or smoke.
The premium Angus Beef satay ($17) is impressive, loaded with smoky flavour and surprisingly juicy. Similarly, try the tender Beef Tripe ($15) and large Tiger Prawn ($20) satays, marinated with unique rempah that uses rich coconut cream and ground candlenuts.
With the equipment they have in place, it’d be a waste not to have more charcoal-grilled dishes on the menu, which makes me glad to see the likes of the Garam Assam Barramundi ($32) on the menu. Using locally-farmed fish, each bite has a lovely mix of zingy pineapple lending a bit of sweetness to the spiced fish. The dish that really knocks it out of the park, however, is the Daging Panggang Sambal Hijau ($50) – a marvellously tender 200-day grain fed Black Angus rib eye steak infused with garlic kesturi and topped with fiery green chilli padi sambal and a soft confit of garlic.
Also making a debut is the Buah Keluak Otak ($16), a mainstay dish in the Nyonya kitchen comprising the delectable ‘black diamond’ infused with a melange of spices, minced prawns, and coconut milk before being wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled.
When it comes to the carbs, look no further than the beloved Nasi Goreng Nyonya ($22), one of Violet’s favourite dishes to cook at home. Two versions are offered: the original and the ‘pedas’ – a dastardly piquant variant determined to make you sweat. Regardless, expect fried jasmine rice that’s expertly coated with sauce and oil, fragrant to a tee along with smoky prawns, garlic, and chilli relish. In other words, wok hei.
The dessert selection includes Chendol with Durian Pengat Sauce ($15), a take on the traditional Southeast Asian dish. The chendol itself – a neon-green rice flour jelly – is infused with fresh pandan leaf extract and a thoughfully-created gula melaka shaved ice, ensuring that the dessert’s flavour does not get diluted upon melting. It’s dressed with red beans, attap chee, Violet’s very own durian pengat sauce, and a wedge of durian flesh to finish.
Tipplers will be pleased by the unique Nyonya-inspired drinks menu created just for the restaurant to complement the food. Pandan leaves are lovingly ground up, its juice extracted and combined with Kettle One vodka and coconut milk to create Jade Bangle ($18), while the Baba Negroni ($22) blends the classic combination of dry Vermouth, Campari, and Diplomatico rum together with Assam essence and fine ginger puree. On the beer front, look forward to craft brews and stout from Little Island Brewing Co.
Violet Oon’s newest concept certainly delivers. Like in her other restaurants, the food is excellent, the service warm and friendly. The atmosphere might get a bit buzzy when the seats fill up, but it is a satay club after all.
Violet Oon Satay Bar & Grill is located at 3B River Valley Rd, Clarke Quay #01-18, Singapore 179021, p. +65 9834 9935. Open daily 6pm – 12am.