PUBLISHED September 30th, 2021 05:00 am | UPDATED July 22nd, 2024 02:56 pm
Boozy yoghurt, Yakult with attitude, the Korean cousin of nigori sake – makgeolli is hard to describe, even if it’s so very easy to drink. This fermented rice wine from Korea makes for a unique drinking experience, fizzing up like a milky, tangy party in the mouth. While its fellow Korean liquor, soju, has soared into the world spotlight on the back of the K-wave, makgeolli hasn’t quite won the renown it richly deserves – yet. We’re giving this ancient brew a spin in the spotlight with our guide to makgeolli, from how it’s brewed to where you can get it in Singapore.
Makgeolli: Korea’s Oldest Liquor
As Korea’s oldest folk liquor, makgeolli has a storied place in history – you’ll find poetic and painterly nods to the brew as far back as the Goryeo kingdom (918-1392). The Jewangun-gi (The Poetic Records of Emperors and Kings) records the earliest mention of makgeolli in Goguryeo’s founding story, where it was dubbed ihwa-ju – pear blossom alcohol, as it was brewed in the blooming season of pear trees. But it was known by another popular name as well: nongju, or farmer’s brew. Cheaply made with surplus crops, makgeolli was the refreshment of farmers – in contrast to soju, which was the refined drink of the elites.
Up till the 1980s, makgeolli was the reigning national drink of Korea. With a modernizing society, however, came a shift toward Western tipples like wine and lagers, relegating old-fashioned makgeolli to the backseat. It was only in 2009 that rice wine staged a surprise renaissance, thanks to a boom in craft makgeollis featuring high-grade rice and sophisticated flavours. This rich drinking experience quickly won over a younger crowd, transforming makgeolli from a cheap, sweet drink tossed back in taverns to a brew you’d savour in specialty bars. And while lesser known than soju, it’s gained a foothold overseas too – makgeolli was a 853-billion-won export market in 2019, a 25% rise from 2017.
Unlike fellow fermented tipples like sake or wine, makgeolli is swift and simple to brew – the entire process takes just seven to ten days. The most basic recipe involves only three ingredients: steamed rice, a Korean fermentation starter known as nuruk, and water. These ferment to form a potent mixture known as wonju, which is left to settle; a clear liquid called cheonju forms at the top and can be distilled to make soju. The remaining mixture, dubbed takju, is then diluted with water to around 6-7% ABV, and roughly strained through a mesh cloth to produce makgeolli.
Tasting Notes
Makgeolli is often described as sweet yet tart, fizzy, and creamy or chalky – think a yoghurt drink, but for adults. We aren’t just kidding with the yoghurt comparison either. Since it doesn’t undergo an ageing process, this unfiltered brew packs high amounts of live yeast and lactic acid bacteria such as Lactobacillus, making it a seriously gut-friendly tipple. Being unrefined, it’s also high in protein – nearly three times the levels found in sake. No surprise it could fuel farmers in the field.
Active yeast and Lactobacillus, of course, are only found in unpasteurized makgeolli, which continues fermenting in the bottle to produce carbonation. These live cultures are responsible for the trademark tartness and fizz of fresh makgeolli; pasteurized makgeolli leans sweeter and less carbonated, but has a far longer shelf life. Look out for the sign ‘saeng’ (생), which designates unpasteurized makgeolli.
Other factors that change the taste of makgeolli include the type of grains used, the koji strains and yeasts composing the nuruk, and the length of fermentation. Makgeolli brewed with glutinous rice, for instance, would taste sweeter than one made with non-glutinous rice. Finally, fruit flavourings are often added using purée or syrups.
Food Pairings
Makgeolli is always sipped chilled, and traditionally paired with savoury, bold-flavoured bites. It mellows the spicy and tangy punch of kimchi-jeon (kimchi pancakes), and cuts through the richness of haemul pajeon (crispy seafood pancakes) and bulgogi (grilled beef or pork). It’s a Korean custom to drink it on a rainy day, and we can see why – there’s nothing like a rustic brew and well-stuffed pancakes to warm you up.
Where to Drink Makgeolli in Singapore
Koryo Mart
A one-stop haven for all things Korean, Koryo Mart stocks one of the rare few unpasteurized makgeolli options available in Singapore: the Kooksoondang Saeng Makgeolli (S$12.90). They also carry a range of pasteurized bottlings from brands like Kooksoondang and Buja, spanning a veritable rainbow of fruit flavours – peach, banana, raspberry, white grape, and more.
Koryo Mart has outlets at Bukit Timah, Telok Ayer, Tanjong Pagar, Marine Parade Central, 313@Somerset, Sengkang, Yishun Central, and Parkway Parade.
Joo Bar
This buzzy mod-Korean spot is Singapore’s only bar to brew their own creamy, delightfully fizzy housemade makgeolli and serve it fresh on tap. They’ve crafted over a dozen sophisticated fruit infusions from peaches-and-honey to mixed berries to taro, alongside seasonal picks like Calamansi & Sea Coconut (from S$22 per bottle). Get a taste of five flavours with their Sampler Set (S$35), or up the booze factor with a shot of vodka in their Flavoured Makka (from S$28). Check out our review here.
Joo Bar is located at 5 Tan Quee Lan St, Singapore 188094, p. +65 8138 1628. Open daily 5.30pm–10.30pm.
Geonbae
Say cheers to Korean liquor with Geonbae – an online bottle shop dedicated to makgeolli, soju, and fruit wines from Korea. Not only do they stock a range of pasteurized makgeolli from popular brands like Sejong and Hallabong, Geonbae’s Makgeolli 5 Bottle Set (S$54.50) lets you try them all. Put together your own makgeolli flight at home with the tasty likes of Sejong’s Chestnut Makgeolli, Icheon Makgeolli made with premium Icheon rice, and the Hallabong Mandarin Makgeolli.
Shop Geonbae’s collections online here.
Lee Mart
Another Korean mini-mart chain with outlets across Singapore, Lee Mart’s makgeolli range veers intriguingly away from the usual fruit infusions. You’ll find Urisul’s Corn, Chestnut, as well as Purple Sweet Potato Makgeolli (S$9.50) numbers on the lineup, offering a mix of earthier and nuttier flavours.
Lee Mart has outlets in Hillion Mall, Chinatown Point, Suntec City, and Heartland Mall.
Top Image: Joo Bar