PUBLISHED June 13th, 2017 06:00 am | UPDATED June 19th, 2017 04:12 pm
Hot on the heels of SRPS, Muse Amuse, another multi-concept space with a tongue twister of a name, has sprouted…this time, in a cosy shophouse along South Bridge Road. Echoing the roots of its Chinatown home, the restaurant Muse serves up Mod-Asian cuisine. Similarly, the bar Amuse is heavily influenced by flavours of the orient. The feeling when you step in is one of arriving at a friend’s stylish house for a well-cooked meal; the space’s minimalist interior design further accentuates the congruence between location and concept.
A large communal wood table greeted us, along with the realisation that the walls were starkly empty. Left blank and whitewashed for potential guest exhibitions and art displays, Muse’s walls are the first indication of the design’s malleability and versatility. Though sparsely decorated, Muse Amuse manages to remain homely and welcoming, injecting warmth with a large open kitchen taking up half of the dining area. The chatter of the chefs, sizzle of cooking food, and clink of kitchen instruments all combine to envelop diners in a familiar cloud of domesticity.
The food, however, is far from what you imagine as home-cooked fare. Delicate and beautifully plated, each dish is a medley of flavours taking inspiration from around the world. The Golden Kibun ($15), deep-fried kimchi risotto balls arranged in a pool of butternut squash puree, is a heavy, comforting appetiser brought to life with spicy gochujang mayonnaise. One of the most aesthetically pleasing dishes on the menu, the steak tartare Tartaro ($18) comes with a bright, sunny raw egg yolk sitting under an umbrella-like leaf, bringing forth memories of summer and the beach. Think miniscule cubes of Korean honey pears and red chilli layered over hand-chopped 200-day grain-fed wagyu, highlighting a sweetness in the meat and lifting the sesame oil dressing with a fruity freshness.
A must-order is the 6-Day Baby Back Pork Ribs ($16), twice-marinated morsels that fall off the bone and melt in your mouth. The Aurora USDA Prime Black Angus Ribeye ($78), sous-vide and then grilled, came with a unique Thai basil dipping sauce that pulled no punches with flavour. Given the cut, the meat could have been more tender, but the piquant sauce made each bite an aromatic delight. Spice lovers will enjoy the Royal Ratchaphruek ($12), a ratatouille of lotus root, sweet potato, zucchini, eggplant, carrot, and potato coiled in a strongly flavoured tom yum broth.
To finish off the meal, the Slow-Cooked Black Glutinous Rice ($8) is a failsafe option, a faithful rendition of a traditional classic made with coconut cream and desiccated coconut. For something more avant garde, the Gula Melaka Panna Cotta with Umami Sea Urchin ($12) will definitely intrigue. The Hokkaido uni might look out of place initially, then the creamy textures of the two merge flawlessly to deliver a rich, buttery mouthful of sweet umami.
After-dinner drinks are settled with just a few steps across the air-well connecting the restaurant to the cocktail bar. Expect unique creations such as the Tom Yum Bloody Mary ($25, tom-yum broth infused vodka, tomato juice, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, chilli padi, calamansi and ginger), Mango Sticky Rice ($25, Angostura Rum, mango puree, lemon juice, syrup, vanilla essence, coconut foam, mango slices, sticky rice), and Bandung Blush ($25, Le Gin 1&9, P.Heering Cherry Brandy, St. Germain Elderflower, rose syrup, fresh milk).
Upstairs, the wood floors and cosy lounge sofas make you feel like you’ve been invited to your friend’s attic instead of the luxury watch retail store it actually is. Luckily, collectors can still find timepieces and accessories from bespoke brands such as Louis Monet, Grieb & Benzinger, and Bernard Favre here. With its delicious food, friendly design, and one-of-a-kind artisanal products, this is one dinner party invite you won’t want to turn down.
Muse Amuse opens from Mon – Sat 12pm–12mn (Muse), 3pm till late (Amuse) at 289 South Bridge Rd, Singapore 058835, p. +65 8500 0588.