PUBLISHED January 20th, 2020 05:00 am | UPDATED May 18th, 2020 06:52 pm
Where Ann Siang Hill meets Club Street, a small crowd gathers near cryptic symbols in an unmarked alley. Here, hollowed out in a basement space across Oxwell & Co, Operation Dagger lies 30th in line at the World’s 50 Best Bars 2019, having also clinched Most Creative Cocktail Bar previously at The Bar Awards Singapore. But we feel inclined to hold our breaths on a verdict since last November brought a massive transition of staff and menu.
Now that ex-owner Luke Whearty has taken off to open BYRDI in Melbourne, they leave behind big shoes for Thomas Girard (formerly of London’s 69 Colebrooke Row) and his new team to fill. Playing dual roles of Head Bartender and Creative Director, Girard overhauls the menu with six exciting new libations, three new ferments, and a couple of fresh bites to this undercover sting. Much like its namesake (an underground police organisation), the Operation lies in quiet anticipation for local arbitration of their newest launch.
To all long-time fanatics: rest easy, decorated veterans like the Gomashio, Hot + Cold, Bee Pollen and Choc Pinot will continue their service on the flavour-forward enlistment of Dangerous Drinking Waters (S$25++ per cocktail).
But joining the ranks come several new additions. The Cheese, No Egg is a balanced serve of sharp cheddar, honey and cream, hit with a blaze of smoked anise (in part for flavour, but also partly just for the spectacle of it all). The surprisingly creamy É KHổ QUA also strikes our fancy as it hits light and grassy, and finishes with a curveball of slight bitterness from lacto-fermented bitter melon.
And as a nod to the Operation’s sustainable ethos – boiled lime husks and used coffee grounds add notes of astringent citrus and caramelised smoke to a play on a gin and tonic, in So It Wasn’t Coffee.
The updated Hooch menu (S$22++) also introduces three new ferments – which can be hit and miss for some, on account of their in-your-face flavours. The Jackfruit and coconut combo teeters on the sweeter side with overripe jackfruit on the nose and a flowery layer of depth, but tastes surprisingly mild and palatable, though I’d attribute it to Southeast Asians and our penchant for fermented coconut (like in arrack).
But it’s the divisively sour sage and pineapple TepatXe that makes for a lip-smacking treat. Inspirited by Mexico’s own fermented beverage, it’s sweet, sour, and spiced to kingdom come with clove, cinnamon, anise, and cardamom. We recommend going full South American for this course, and pairing it with the slow-cooked Chilli + Meat (S$18++).
No grand arches or neon signs make known this award-winning establishment – save for the few etchings of Hobo code (yes, it’s a thing) crudely scribbled on its entrance, this covert mission is a deep vein operation more heard of than seen. You may have also noticed a lack of mention in alcohol – and it’s intentional.
The bobbys by the bar don’t mention names in the hopes that patrons will feel less inclined to try the same old stuff (or stay away from the same old stuff). It’s all in the spirit of exploring new flavours and stepping out of your comfort zone – not so much if you’re looking to get buzzed. So come to the bar with an open mind, leave your judgement at the door, and don’t slag on vodka just because you had one rough night on Belvedere.
Operation Dagger is located at 7 Ann Siang Hill, #B1-01, Singapore 069791, p. +65 6438 4057. Open Mon-Sat 6pm – 12am. Closed Sun.