EYE CANDY: We Chat with Josh Fontaine of Candelaria, Paris

In town for Singapore Cocktail Week (and just in time for this edition of EYE CANDY), Josh Fontaine is the transcontinental success story that we all want to be. Having left his native Connecticut almost eight years ago, Josh now co-owns four of the hottest bars in Paris with fellow NYU alum Adam Tsou and Tsou’s wife, Carina Soto Velasquez Tsou.

We chat about the journey to Paris, the city’s cocktail scene, and cocktail trends of 2016:

Hi Josh! For folks who haven’t heard of your four venues in Paris – Candelaria, Glass, Le Mary Celeste, and Hero – can you tell us more them?

Sure. Candelaria is our first venue, opened in 2011. It’s a authentic Mexican taqueria with an agave-focused cocktail bar behind it. Glass – a rock ‘n roll bar with great drinks and a light-up dance floor – followed in 2012 in the Pigalle neighborhood, the old red light district which has since seen a nightlife resurgence.

Le Mary Celeste opened about 200 metres from Candelaria in early 2013. It’s a much more open, light-filled space on a corner in the Haut Marais serving aperitif cocktails, natural wine, and vegetable-heavy sharing dishes and seafood. Lastly, in April 2015, we opened Hero, a Korean-inspired restaurant (heavy on the Korean fried chicken!) with fun cocktails and sparkling wine.

How did you (an American) end up bartending in Paris?

I moved to Paris in 2008 to go back to school for an MA in International Relations after spending ten years in New York. I wanted a change of scenery and to learn a second language, and I’d always liked the idea of living in a foreign country. My two-year plan turned into (now) nearly eight years in the city, and I’ve no plans to leave at the moment!

How does the bar scene in Paris compare to that in internationally recognized cocktail-culture rich cities like London and New York City?

Paris started much later than those two cities in regards to the cocktail resurgence, but its development has been very rapid, much like Singapore. Today we don’t have to be jealous of anything in those two cities; you can get a great drink in almost as many places in Paris as New York.

Do you see yourself opening a bar in your hometown of Connecticut?

My hometown of Woodstock, Connecticut, is a small farming town of around 7000 people, so I don’t think I’ll be returning there to open a business anytime soon!

Is there someone famous that you would like to make a cocktail for, and what would it be?

Hmm…how about a White Russian for the Dude (the Big Lebowski)?

Which bar has impressed you recently?

I really love Bar Termini in London. Small, great drinks, great service, open all day!

How did you come to participate in Singapore Cocktail Week? Is there any difference between Paris Cocktail Week and our version?

Singapore Cocktail Week has much more going on than the Paris version – it’s unbelievable to see the development in only two years! We were asked to come over by Monkey Shoulder and Hendrick’s, with a little prodding by our friend Joel at Cufflink Club. Jay at Monkey Shoulder was a very gracious host – we had great time going to all the events, checking out new bars, and seeing old friends.

What do you think are the upcoming trends in cocktails?

I think the lower ABV thing will continue to expand, as will better and more thoughtful non-alcoholic drinks. We’re moving towards simplicity as well; it’s actually quite difficult to come up with a tasty, inventive highball with 3-4 ingredients. The days of nine ingredient, geeky short drinks are coming to an end.

Any advice for someone looking to open his or her own bar?

Take your time and learn about the business side of things – just because you can make a great Old Fashioned doesn’t mean you’ll be successful.


Chief Editor

Emily heads the editorial team on City Nomads by being a stickler for details, a grammar Nazi, and a really picky eater. Born and bred in Singapore, she loves cats, the written word, and exploring new places. Can be bribed with quality booze across the board.