PUBLISHED March 24th, 2026 02:17 am
Robert Mercier may not be a household name in Singapore, but many would have seen images of the French maestro’s work making rounds on Instagram. Think Zendaya’s skin-toned Balmain dress for Dune’s premiere at the 2021 Venice Film Festival. Or, recall how Hunter Schafer wore a white feather top to the 2023 Vanity Fair Oscars party. Behind those viral looks is none other than Mercier’s expertise in leather sculpting.
Though the material has been the tool of his trade, Mercier notes that his first love was actually wood. From a very young age, Mercier spent a lot of time with enthusiasts who practised sculpture near his home in Issoudun, a French commune. After futile attempts to find a woodworking school nearby, Mercier turned towards leather-working and found similarities between both materials.
From Unexpected Beginnings to Fashion’s Master Leather Artisan
Fast forward to today, Mercier is a leather artisan with over thirty years of experience under his belt. While his involvement in fashion was unplanned, it came as a surprise that changed the trajectory of his career. A chance encounter with Jean Paul Gaultier saw his first commission, and collaborations soon followed. Today, creative directors ranging from Jonathan Anderson to Olivier Rousteing have all enlisted Mercier’s skills to create innovative showpieces. Be it shaping bustiers that fit Kim Kardashian’s body or crafting moulds of pregnant bellies, Mercier is fashion’s secret weapon and game-changer.
I’ve been very selective with the people with whom I collaborate. I’m very involved in my projects. I take on less work to produce better results.
However, the fashion industry’s relentless pace results in an undervaluation of the time and effort artisans pour into hand-making quality pieces. In such a stressful environment, Mercier notes the importance of self-preservation to give one’s best. For him, the utmost priority is working with emotion. “I’ve been very selective with the people with whom I collaborate,” admits the craftsman. “I’m very involved in my projects. I take on less work to produce better results.”
Nonetheless, what Mercier appreciates about working in fashion is the ability to bring designers’ visions to life and enrich his craft. Recalling a recent breakthrough, Mercier rose to the challenge of creating trompe l’oeil bibs for John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Though the sculptural aspects did not pose technical problems, Mercier had to discover how the textures of porcelain and mahogany wood could be translated onto leather with paint. When it came to the research process, Mercier’s journey was nothing short of a surprise: examining plate production, observing the characteristics of tree veins, and utilising a stone from his garden.
This article was originally commissioned by Anisa Johnny and published in the debut issue of Artisan Magazine, September 2025.
Featured Photo: Courtesy of Robert Mercier