PUBLISHED January 13th, 2024 06:00 am | UPDATED January 19th, 2024 05:21 pm
A seafood steakhouse might come across with paradoxical, but if anyone can pull it off, it’s Josh Niland of Sydney’s Saint Peter and Fish Butchery fame (Masterchef Australia fans will definitely find him familiar). Known in the culinary world for turning fish cookery on its head, he brings mastery to Singapore at FYSH at Edition, where is he Chef Partner. Located within luxury lifestyle hotel The Singapore Edition, the 154-seat timber-clad restaurant is gorgeous with soaring ceilings and plenty of greenery.
Niland’s gill-to-fin, scale-to-tail approach presents itself even before food arrives at our table, in the FYSH Martini ($26++). An aperitif cocktail that sets the stage for what is to come, it sees Murray Cod fat washed Stranger & Sons Gin stirred down with fino sherry and dry vermouth. As we’re sipping our martini, we learn that all fish are procured whole, descaled, and butchered in-house by the kitchen to be able to apply Niland’s sustainable preparation and cooking techniques.
Tucking into the starters, we find more parts of the Murray Cod that are usually discarded in our next dish. Featuring Javanese brown clams cooked in the Josper oven, the most intriguing part of Brown Clams XO ($32++) is its bed of Murray Cod bone noodles. Bones are boiled for hours then ground into paste, and mixed with flour to make noodles, resulting in a more than al dente texture. The lashing of XO sauce, made from cod bones as well as innards of fish and shellfish, is less intense in flavour compared to its Chinese counterparts, pulling everything together nicely.
Of note is also the FYSH Egg Tart ($28++). Simple and crowd-pleasing, it makes an impression with its top layer of glistening salmon roe atop rich French creme fraiche and chives nestled within buttery shortcrust pastry.
While FYSH is definitely fish and seafood-focused, their land-based proteins are treated with the same respect and approach. Sourced from Game Farm in Australia’s New South Wales, our Charcoal Grilled Game Farm Quail ($36++) was cooked to perfection. Served with chickpea panisse, grilled figs and fresh herbs, the star though, was really the sauce made from roasted quail bones, rosemary, and shallot.
To truly experience FYSH is to tackle its signature 400g Dry Aged Mooloolaba Yellowfin Tuna Ribeye ($125++). Working with Walker Seafoods, Australia’s only MSC-certified wild caught tuna company, the fish is aged up to 15 days being being cooked like how one cooks a steak. Served like how a bone-in ribeye might be served at a steakhouse, the tuna lost its fishiness – bigger on umami with more robust fish flavour. With a melt-in-your-mouth texture, you might forget the accompanying homemade condiments until you reach for the third slice.
After a well-paced meal, we arrive at dessert. It might sound off-putting but the yellowfin tuna eye ice cream didn’t hurt our enjoyment of the Valrhona Chocolate Macaron ($16++). Sandwiched between the macaron shells, the dessert is dominated by chocolate’s dark and decadent profile.
For a more refreshing but equally sinful sweet treat, look to FYSH’s sweet and tangy Three Milk Cake ($18++). Vanilla sponge richly layered with condensed milk, crème anglaise and crème fraiche is balanced with passionfruit pulp as well as housemade coconut and passionfruit sorbet.
FYSH at EDITION is located at The Singapore EDITION, 38 Cuscaden Road, Singapore 249731, p. +65 6329 5000. Open for lunch 12pm-2.30pm daily, dinner runs Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10.30pm.