PUBLISHED September 18th, 2014 04:00 pm | UPDATED May 19th, 2017 04:07 pm
Celebrity stardom is a boon for an aspiring chef, until he or she isn’t too up-and-coming anymore. After all, critics do not exist to pat the same back twice.
That’s unless the same hand brings you on a journey which gently surprises at every turn, without being airlifted from the essence of what made it special in the first place. And, my, are we glad that Willin Low isn’t too sore from excessive back-patting.
In fact, the 42-year-old chef still appears every bit the radiant energy bunny that we know of nine years ago when he single-handedly introduced Mod Sin into the local gastronomic vernacular. Appearing more confident than ever after a makeover of his flagship Wild Rocket, Willin Low still manages to provide abundant fodder for the foodie’s imagination today. This was a foregone conclusion from sampling his new 8-course Omakase offering ($118++).
Laksa Risotto
Just when you thought the inventor of laksa pesto would rest on his laurels after making the pasta dish the face of Mod Sin, Willin tops it with his version of Singapore Fried Noodles. A nest of soy-slicked capellini tossed in kombu has as firm a bite as the giant, pan-seared tiger prawn resting on it. As disgusting as it sounds, the noodles are irresistibly alkaline, yet smartly rounded with a smidge of lime.
The ghost of laksa pesto rears its head again in a well-executed Laksa Risotto, spiked with the creaminess of laksa and crowned with a dollop of pesto. Mixed together, the greenness of the herb mix and the richness of the laksa cream sing an abridged version of ‘We are the World’. An angmoh scallop, silky and tender nonetheless, serves as the chorus.
Beware singing the praise of a reincarnation of Salted Egg Yolk Crab too loudly – Lonely Planet-equipped tourists and local hungrygowhere devotees will hear you within the somewhat confined space, marginally ‘widened’ by bright sunshine streaming in. A crusted ball of lump and spanner crab comes with no cheap fillers, adorned with a salted egg crumble that adds moisture and a (good) crab roe funk to the clean-tasting crustacean meat.
While presenting sharper, more assertive flavours, Willin remains committed to exploring new techniques. As a matter of fact, an occasional trick or two marvellously lifts a dish, like the coconut ice cream that melts into a dressing in a texture bomb of a Pomelo Salad. Or the touch of soy sauce salt that’s like magic dust over an old-school combination of Pineapple, Sweet soy and Chilli, bringing back memories of the days of syrup-soaked ice balls and haw flakes.
House-Made Matcha Sugee Cake
Desserts remain light and fuss-free, from a house-made Sugee Cake to a signature Pandan Panna Cotta. However, the effort and time spent curating a space now stripped of both table cloths and a pretend je ne sais quois, does show. Unique potato peeler lamps by Mud Rock, uniforms put together by Nic Wong of Saturday and plates from Supermama lend a Japanese tea-room inspired stylishness to a casual hangout, sophisticated without being stuffy.
There are stars who happen to be chefs. And then there are chefs who are stars. Willin Low exemplifies the latter in his grounded approach to food and his skilful execution of never-ending creative ideas that hit multiple home runs.
Image credits to Kairo Photography
Written by Brandon Ho
Check out more Singaporean grub at WANTON Seng’s Noodle Bar – Bespoke Wonton Mee with a Twist: Review and Po: Elevated Mod-Sin Cuisine at The Warehouse Hotel