PUBLISHED August 1st, 2017 05:30 am
Nostalgia seems to be having its moment lately. From the resurgence of analog technologies to our un-ironic appreciation of ‘70s music, there seems to be no end to our yearning for an era long past. Xiao Ya Tou, the now one-year-old joint at Duxton Hill, plays cleverly into this newfound appetite by combining our creature comforts with yet another beloved trend – brunch. What culminates is a cheeky translation of iconic Asian dishes for a younger, more cosmopolitan palate; one that can never decide if they want to have their local hawker fare or an exquisite café meal.
Taking its name from the Mandarin colloquial term for “little girl”, Xiao Ya Tou is, essentially, as playful as it sounds. Neon signs and faux-vintage trinkets adorn its interiors, tricking the unsuspecting passer-by into believing that the place is no more than an extension of its neighbour, Chinatown. Yet, a closer look at its menu – similarly decorated with kitschy florals and retro illustrations – would reveal that beneath its eclectic surface, this café serves up ingenious Asian-fusion dishes.
The signature Unagi Benedict ($16) is a thorough reinvention of the English breakfast classic, so much so that the only original element remaining is the perfectly poached egg. The hollandaise sauce has been modernised with a faint drizzle of yuzu, accompanied by a chunk of delicious grilled unagi instead of ham or smoked salmon. The unexpected highlight of the dish is, however, the deep-fried mantou – a stand-in for the traditional English muffins used in Eggs Benedict, and an inexplicable source of joy for those of us who grew up stuffing ourselves with these satisfying buns.
For something more hearty, try the Twice-Cooked Spiced Duck Noodles ($19). Frequently mistaken for tagliatelle and mee pok, the yellow noodles are coated with a flavourful blend of sauces, complementing the juicy duck confit with a crisp skin. Equally full-flavoured is the Chee Cheong Fun ($17), a brilliant twist on an otherwise simple breakfast dish. One can only fall back on clichés to deem the dongpo beef as ‘melt in your mouth’. But this is no exaggeration, for in each bite, the tender beef slices almost disintegrate and meld into the silky handmade rice rolls.
A noteworthy – and somewhat successful – attempt at updating the commonplace Chinese noodle dish, the Seafood Mee Sua ($19) comes in a dashi broth that smacks a little to much of the standard miso soup. Nonetheless, the natural sweetness of the fresh prawns and clams infuses the broth with such a lightness that, conjures up the most nuanced burst of flavour.
Of course, a trip to Xiao Ya Tou is not complete without a browse through its cocktail menu, for it is there that you’ll find the most inventive spins on local coffee shop staples – our drinks. The rum-based Yuan Yang ($15), whilst potent, leaves an unmistakable trace of tea and condensed milk on your palate, whereas the popular Milo Dinosaur ($15) features the recognisable dollop of milo powder atop its alcoholic chocolate blend, a formula that is curiously reminiscent of Bailey’s chocolate.
Quirky yet comforting, Xiao Ya Tou’s delivery on their new brunch menu is mostly on point. So the next time you’re looking for a more unconventional brunch experience, be sure to check out Xiao Ya Tou!
Xiao Ya Tou is located at 6 Duxton Hill, Singapore 089592, p. +65 6226 1965. Open Mon-Thu: 12pm-11pm, Fri: 12pm-12am, Sat: 10am-12am, Sun: 10am-5pm.