PUBLISHED October 9th, 2020 05:00 am | UPDATED July 22nd, 2024 05:42 pm
A hotel with only one bedroom, a former geisha house, a space where tatami mats and karaoke machines collide – Trunk (House) is all of these things. Hidden in the maze of cobbled streets that is Tokyo’s Kagurazaka district, this two-storey sanctuary stands at the crossroads of traditional charm and modern indulgence.
Few Tokyo ‘hoods retain more old-world quaintness than Kagurazaka. During the Edo period, this entertainment district was packed with geisha houses and ryotei – some of which survive till today. From the outside, Trunk (House) blends right in with its preserved façade of grey stone, a gateway veiled by white noren curtains, and a pine tree peeking out just behind. Slip through and you’ll find yourself in a genkan-style foyer, with a stained-glass landscape of Mount Fuji set discreetly over the doorway – a nod to the old belief that Japan’s highest mountain could be seen from Kagurazaka.
The interior is where contemporary elements come into play, woven almost seamlessly with the old. Remodelled by Trunk Atelier and design studio Tripster, the first floor is sleek with grey mortar walls and dark terrazzo floors. Partitions have been removed so that guests can move freely through the living area – from the long oak dining table which looks out onto a pocket-sized garden, to the open kitchen where private chefs perform culinary theatre. It’s a stunning setting for Tokyo’s most exclusive house party (think room charges starting from JPY 150,000).
You won’t be short of entertainment either. Where the soft strains of the shamisen once echoed, the house now resounds with the modern staple of Tokyo nightlife – karaoke. Beside a tea display, two soundproofed black doors lead to Japan’s smallest disco – a neon-red box with an illuminated dancefloor and karaoke machines. Shimmy your fill under the disco ball, then take a breather at the curved bar where sharply-dressed butlers serve up cocktails and Japanese whiskies.
17th- and 18th-century Edo was known for its elegant artists’ salons, and Trunk (House) brings that creative spirit to life with an eclectic sprinkling of artworks. In the upstairs living room, a caramel leather sofa perches beside Jean Prouvé’s iconic Potence floor lamp – an angular, purist masterpiece.
There’s a tatami mat area with a traditional irori or sunken hearth for tea ceremonies, beside which Chiaki Hirano’s paper artwork and Nelson’s Cigar Lotus lamp – all spheres and steel – look not a whit out of place. Sliding shoji windows and pale wood floors pull the whole space gracefully together.
The hotel’s one and only bedroom is an airy, austere haven for two. Hanging over the futon-style bed is the only pop of colour in the room – an abstract Alex Dodge silk collage, inspired by kimono patterns. Full-length steel cupboard doors blend into the shadowed walls, swinging back to reveal wardrobes and a minibar.
A throwback to the public baths that could once be found in every district, the bathroom is a sumptuous affair. There’s a small shower area with a bath stool for sitting onsen-style, but you’ll want to plunge into the deep, square hinoki wood bath instead. As you soak, feast your eyes on a ukiyo-e woodblock print by contemporary painter Masumi Ishikawa, depicting erotic scenes alongside local flora. It all looks remarkably like paradise.
Trunk (House) is located at 3 Chome-1-34 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 162-0825, Japan. Prices start from JPY 500,000 per night for a stay of up to two pax.
All photos courtesy of Tomooki Kengaku.