House of Dandy: International yet effortlessly local cocktails
PUBLISHED February 4th, 2014 04:23 am | UPDATED May 18th, 2020 04:31 pm
Dandy [noun]: a man excessively concerned with his appearance; or, anything of first-rate and exceptional quality. Amidst the walls adorned with suited men and artistic nudes, amongst the plush leathered seats, lies a treasure trove of unique libations. Located in increasingly trendy Tras St, House of Dandy showcases a range of high calibre drinks that pay homage to cocktail classics, often inspired by local ingredients.
The plush décor does not belie the fusion cocktail menu that is categorised into four distinct drinking methods to suit differing tastes. Each category has classic drinks found on the left-hand column, while house creations that are a twist on established cocktails are on the right. The experimental right-hand changes every three months to keep things interesting, but those on the left are constant.
Imagined by head bartender, Zac Mirza, our titillating journey began with a cocktail from ‘Some Like It Spry’ – a section dedicated to shorter, quicker drinks. The Julep Infidel ($20) is a refreshing drink that is perfect for Singapore’s hot climate and is rooted in local ingredients: lime juice, gula melaka, and kaffir lime leaves. The rum-based cocktail is tart, aromatic, and complex. Despite the initial sourness, the gula melaka envelops the palate for a sweet finish.
Moving to taller, sipping cocktails, the Dandifurous Mule ($22) from ‘Some Like It Slow’ presents a twist on the Moscow Mule. Its versatility is what makes it unique as one can mix in their spirit of choice. Working with a base of bitters, ginger beer, and lime wedges, it becomes delicate when mixed with dark rum. However, when drunk with Artenum tequila, it transforms into a smokier, full-bodied drink.
The Dandy Threesome ($22) is part of ‘Some Like It Svelte’, where drinks are sexier and presented in showier glassware. This is the bar’s surprising take on a margarita and the runaway winner. Made with tequila, Cointreau, kaffir lime leaves, fresh ginger, fresh orange, lemon, and lime juice, orange bitters, lemongrass syrup and egg whites; it is reminiscent of some of Singapore’s best dishes. The lime leaves shine through, while the lemongrass syrup is subtle but omnipresent. Egg whites lend it a creamier taste that is similar to what can only be described as a nonya laksa sauce.
Lastly, ‘Some Like It Spiffy’ is a collection of smartly creative drinks. Rake’s Ration ($30), a drink for two, is presented in a large shaker with elegantly smoky theatrics. It contains rum, bourbon, amaro, lemon juice, Chambord, honey syrup infused with chamomile, cloves, and black peppercorn, angostura bitters, orange bitters, and IPA beer. It is spice-laden, yet fresh and completely different. With the rise of craft beers in Singapore, this is a cocktail that tests your taste, but leaves you wanting more (perhaps no sharing next time!).
Few places manage to infuse the diversity of truly local ingredients into their cocktails seamlessly. However, House of Dandy does an exceptional job balancing old-world cocktails with ingredients that remind you of homely Peranakan cuisine, all encapsulated in a masculine and sophisticated space.
Written by The Non Sequitur
On this occasion the drinks were compliments of House of Dandy
