PUBLISHED July 15th, 2019 05:00 am | UPDATED August 16th, 2019 04:58 pm
There’s no doubt in our minds that Min Jiang’s new look at its Dempsey Hill outlet will be a game-changer – at least when it comes to the modern Chinese food scene in Singapore. It’s a huge departure from their flagship at Goodwood Park: airy contemporary chinoiserie simultaneously keeps with the traditional senses of the heritage destination, communal dining spaces spill with natural light, and organic private rooms are sectioned off by intimate wooden screens.
It’s perfect timing too, because spring is all about rejuvenation and new beginnings. Designed by the celebrated architect Ernesto Bedmar, his vision adds emphasis to the lush and teeming landscape at Dempsey while echoing the riverbanks of the Min River. With timber trellis ceilings, panelled walls, and a stunning colour palette of gold and green, the space take a leaf (pun intended) out from nature’s book. Stepping inside, you see an eight-seater bar progressing to the light-filled main dining hall, and then three private rooms seating up to 30.
On to the food: Master Chef Goh Chee Kong has spent more than 17 of his 32-year career at Min Jiang, and now brings in a new wave of creativity to his cooking. His new menu presents the familiar flavours we all know and love in exciting ways, and crowdpleaser include the Steamed ‘Goldfish’ Prawn Dumpling (S$4.80 per piece) — a single har gow nestled in rich egg white stock that pleases both the eyes and the palate. Similarly, the Heritage Treasures Platter (S$88 for 4 people) is how Chef Goh pays homage to the dim sum you’d find in Singapore during the 60s to 80s. Think crisp fried teochew style shrimp roll and fork-tender braised pork, wuxi style.
The Typhoon Shelter Squid and Soft Shell Crab (S$32++) is a robust dish with mild heat, which Chef Goh named after the typhoon shelters where Hong Kong fishermen would prepare their catch. A fiery stir-fry of garlic, dried chilli, and curry leaves tossed in a menagerie of deep fried squid and soft shell crab, this dish is the lovechild between cereal prawns and kung pao chicken. Later, the Braised Sea Treasure Soup in Pomegranate Egg White Parcel (S$48++) accompanied with prawn spring roll also hits hard with a collagen-rich broth bursting with flavour from the abalone-stuffed parcel.
The labourious effort taken to create their own version of lap cheong (Chinese sausage) in Iberico Pork Fried Rice (S$18 per person) is worth an honorable mention in itself. Served in a mini pumpkin accompanied with housemade XO sauce, you can taste a bit of soft sweetness from the yellow fruit.
For dessert, skip the obligatory bowl of peach resin. Instead, try the Banana Toffee (S$10++ for eight) for a flavour bomb of sweet caramel in bite-sized pieces, together with unripe banana to round it out.
It would be blasphemous for Chef Goh to do away with the Min Jiang classics, so he doesn’t. The Legendary Wood-Fired Beijing Duck (S$118++ for a whole duck) is a mainstay and an age-old recipe made with top quality ducks from Silver Hill farm in Ireland, roasted to crisp perfection over applewood. It’s then carved tableside to showcase it crackling golden skin and succulent meat – it’s transcendent.
Min Jiang at Dempsey is located at 7A & 7B Dempsey Rd, Singapore 249684, p.+ 65 6774 0122. Open daily 11.30am — 2.30pm and 6.30pm — 10.30pm.