Restaurant Review: CHAR Celebrates 9 Years With More Tasty Char Siew and Home Style Dishes
PUBLISHED March 18th, 2023 06:00 am | UPDATED March 24th, 2023 12:18 am
Known for its “one of a kind char siew“, or sweet Chinese BBQ pork belly, Char celebrates their 9th anniversary with a refreshed look and new additions to the menu at their Jalan Besar restaurant. Their original spin on classic Asian roasts won them Michelin Plate recognition from 2016 to 2018 under the Fine Cantonese Cuisine category. But far from the “seriousness” of fine dining, Char’s interior palette of blue and light wood, accompanied by illustrations and neon-lighted puns, exudes an air of playfulness.
Together with a new bar counter displaying selections of craft beers and wines, it sets the tone for the robust flavours to come.
A trip to Char wouldn’t be complete without an order of their signature char siew and roasted pork belly. With its skin roasted to perfection, the savoury roasted pork belly is simultaneously crispy and tender. The slightly fatty char siew filled our mouths with the sweetness of their proprietary marinade. For something new, look to the Mala char siew (S$20++). This fiery take on the signature dish is marinated with the house-made mala sauce, with part of the sweetness taken over by a kick from peppercorns and chillies. It doesn’t overwhelm the palate, nor numb our lips, so we consider it to be “extra small spicy” (小小辣).
Having had one too many rich salted egg dishes in the past, the Tornado Butter Egg Prawn (S$22++) didn’t quite excite us on paper. Instead of salted egg, the chef uses a complex technique with egg batter to create wispy strands of buttery egg floss. With a texture finer than the usual pork floss, this savoury-sweet egg floss almost melts in the mouth. Although the use of curry leaves and chilli padi is reminiscent of a salted egg prawn dish, Char’s take is much lighter and buttery in texture, making it a delight to eat. A must-try in our books.
The innovative use of ingredients fully comes through in the following two dishes. Inspired by the local favourite BBQ stingray, the Okra Banana Delight (S$15.50++) features torched bananas with sauteed okra in the familiar sweet and spicy sambal sauce. The banana’s sweet creaminess reduces the okra’s grassy taste and slimy texture, which is great for people who enjoy okra sans slime.
In the Spicy Sichuan Chicken with Ice Cream (S$18.80++), chicken chunks are deep-fried with peppercorns and dried red chillies and served with a side of vanilla ice cream. More than a quirky combination, ice cream helps to reduce the heat from the chillies and balances the savoury chicken. If you like fries dipped in ice cream, you will appreciate the play of flavours here. But even if you don’t, the spicy chicken chunks are toothsome on their own.
Warming hearts and bellies is the Pig’s Stomach with Anxin Chicken Soup (S$32++, serves four). The soup is double-boiled to an almost creamy consistency, and with the generous use of white peppercorns, this rich and flavoursome soup packs a punch. The belly-warming soup brims with a fall-off-the-bone free-range chicken leg and tender slices of pig’s stomach. Perfect on the cold, wet day when we tried it.
Char is located at 363 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208994, p.+65 6842 7759. Open Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-9.30pm. Closed Mon.
