Bar Review: Nemesis, A Cheeky New Concept From Junior The Pocket Bar on Duxton Hill, Singapore
PUBLISHED October 25th, 2021 05:00 am | UPDATED October 29th, 2021 01:22 am
One step into Nemesis and it’s instantly clear we’ve found a gem that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The first thing that greets us is a portrait of an Elizabethan gentleman stylishly clad in a ruff – if not for the Alien-style facehugger over his head. More ‘vandalized’ classical art awaits further down, including one dignified nobleman with neon yellow smoke puffing from his nostrils. For a bar that shares a name with the Greek goddess who punishes hubris, it sure puts up an irreverent show.
Still, we reckon the goddess herself would forgive them, once she gets a taste of their fun tipples and pizzas. Launched in September on Duxton Hill, Nemesis is the latest concept from the folks behind Junior the Pocket Bar. Fronted by Peter Chua and Hazel Long, the space playfully recalls a ruined temple with its Greek columns and raw concrete walls. Bartenders wearing paint-splattered vests whip up martini twists behind the bar, and the menu of Italian bar bites comes printed on neon red transparency sheets. The cheek is literal too – glance at your coaster to be mooned by a close-up of a classically nude bum.
Low-ABV is all the rage these days, and Nemesis’ NoLo Aperitivo section plays to the health-conscious crowd with zero- and low-ABV picks (S$19 each) that focus on fresh fruits and herbs. There’s Iaso, a herbaceous and fennel-forward potion with a touch of honey; opt for gin or swap out the booze with Lyre’s Aperitif Dry. For an easy-drinking start to the night, the Sunset Drip puts a spicy spin on the tequila sunrise with Shiraz Gin, spiced orange, and mint.
The house cocktails turn the ABV up a notch, along with the fun. Our eye is caught by the Hawaiian (S$23), supposedly a liquid take on the pizza classic. But with its spice-rich blend of rye, pear, and pineapple topped off with creamy cheese foam and apple crumble, it winds up looking and tasting like a Christmassy Starbucks latte – and we mean that in the best possible way.
The Manly Glass (S$23) arrives looking far from stereotypically masculine, with its rosy pink concoction of Citadelle Gin and sweet vermouth crowned with a strawberry. But be warned – topped off with a dash of sherry, it packs a spirit-forward, summery punch. The martinis, needless to say, are potent too. Our silky smooth Wise Crack (S$25) is a triple threat of gin, dry vermouth, and sherry, laced with herbal hints of sage and elderflower.
The bar grub here no afterthought – think Italian comfort food given an irreverent spin. For nibbles, you’ll find the likes of Olives (S$12) stuffed with goat cheese, then beer-battered and deep-fried to form a juicy, briny bomb. Another deep-fried number, the housemade Lasagna (S$14) wears a crisp-charred coat of breadcrumbs, resulting in a dense brick of pure sinfulness. Balance out the oily fare with Bitter Leaf (S$12) – a salad of radicchio and endives, balanced out with sweet chunks of pear and funky blue cheese.
But it’s the sourdough-style pizzas that truly steal the show. Created by Andrei Soen and Matt Kuhnemann of Park Bench Deli, these hand-kneaded pies come brushed with brown butter and baked to ten inches of glorious chewiness – neither too airy nor too dense. The nine-strong selection is split into red and white bases, ranging from classics to funkier toppings. Many of the options are pretty veggie-forward, but the team has plans to offer meat add-ons in future.
The Pepperoni (S$18), for one, is a classic generously heaped with pepperoni and parmesan shavings – if you love pizza for both crust and toppings, Nemesis has perfected the ratio in our books. For something cheekier, the Potato (S$18) piles carbs on carbs with a fluffy crust blanketed in creamy potato salad and béchamel, along with a sprinkling of crisp pickled onions. It’s carb heaven in a bar – better, we daresay, than many a pizza place could dish up.
Nemesis is located at 37 Duxton Hill, Singapore 089615, p. +65 8028 3697. Open Tues-Sat 5.30pm–10.30pm. Closed Sun & Mon.
