Restaurant Bar Review: Corduroy Palace Brings Midcentury American Decadence to Amoy Street, Singapore

PUBLISHED October 18th, 2021 05:00 am | UPDATED October 21st, 2021 07:05 pm

We might not give our comfy corduroy pants a second thought, but the fabric comes threaded with rich history. From the Middle Ages, its warmth made it the garb of choice for Europe’s aristocracy in the days before heating. During the Industrial Revolution, it slid down the scales as working-class wear, only to be rediscovered and made trendy by 1960s hippies (we’re talking bell bottoms, of course). In short, the humble corduroy weaves together both glamour and grunge – and that describes Corduroy Palace just as well.

Tucked in a grungy alleyway off Gemmill Lane, Corduroy Palace’s entrance might inspire raised eyebrows. The brainchild of Gibran Baydoun and the team behind famed Brooklyn pizzeria Lucali BYGB, this wine hall is a glamorous blast from New York’s midcentury past. You’d never know it from its dingy exterior, though – it’s well-hidden behind Proper Slice BYGB, the group’s hole-in-the-wall pizza concept.

But venture deeper and a gleaming new world swims into view – the dimly lit lovechild of an American dive bar and an art collector’s lounge. Here, the edges of the world feel softened – and not only because of the wine revelry in store. With its low ceilings, walls clad in knitted fabric, and antique rugs underfoot, the gastrobar envelopes us like a plush cocoon. Slide into spacious banquettes blanketed in silky corduroy, or perch at the bar beneath dramatic ranks of mercury-dipped lightbulbs.

An artistic vein runs through the restaurant, from the architectural tomes lining the bar to the eclectic array of modern art on the walls. You might spot famed German painter Gerhard Richter’s Ifrit, a chromogenic print flowing with exuberant colours; the bathroom is home to a Picasso original, Grande Maternité. Also in the bathroom? A bowl of complimentary condoms cheekily printed with a mantra from Prince: ‘The only love there is, is the love we make’.

The first order of the night has to be the wine, of course. There’s no missing the wine hall by the entrance, with its ten coolers neon-lit in rainbow hues – a nod to the fluorescent light installations of mid-century artist Dan Flavin. Head Sommelier Marcus Chen has curated a medley of over 300 bottles, from natural and biodynamic wines to cult classics. No wines by the glass are available, so if you don’t fancy polishing off a whole bottle – which can cost you anywhere from S$100 to S$2,000 – opt for a cocktail instead. In line with the midcentury theme, Head Bartender Nina Kong whips up cocktail classics like martinis and gimlets behind the bar.

Crafted by Executive Chef Ariana Flores, the food, too, is a slice of culinary extravagance from a swanky 1960s American hotel lounge. We start off with a platter of Jonah Crab Claws (S$40) on ice. Prying out the flaky flesh calls for patience, but the tasty dip of caramelized butter keeps us going. Another surprising starter, the Canned Fish (S$25) is far from your typical lackluster sardines. The restaurant offers a daily pick of tinned fish, including unusual numbers like codfish and octopus skin. We opt for the cod, and easily polish off the firm flakes – house-marinated with capers and olive oil – with delicate triangles of toast.

There’s one odd duck out on the very American menu: You Peng’s Dumplings (S$50 for ten pieces). These xiao long bao come from Bukit Timah stall You Peng Noodle Dumpling House, and you might notice they’re five times the price of your usual soup dumplings. That’s thanks to a decadent topping of caviar, which is sadly rather drowned out by the vinegary juice. The dumplings themselves, however, are perfectly thin-skinned and luscious – plus, where else would you get to eat your xiao long bao with jade chopsticks?

Speaking of decadence, there’s plenty of that going round with their caviar cart. Midway through the meal, the staff wheels a gleaming trolley past our table, and suddenly we’re roped into doing a caviar bump. A dollop of briny goodness is spooned directly onto our bare fist, and we’re told to down a vodka shot before licking up the skin-warmed caviar. It tastes like glorious, over-the-top opulence.

For mains, you’ll find the likes of Chicken Cordon Bleu (S$34) – a roulade of Benton’s ham, oozy provolone, and tender chicken that is surprisingly satisfying. But if you’re after something more extravagant – and of course you are – The Prime Rib (S$150 for 300g) easily feeds four with its crusty outsides and perfectly red, juicy centre. What’s more, it’s served alongside a massive Idaho baked potato that fully deserves its own menu listing. Think a boulder of ultra-fluffy potato brimming over with sour cream and, yes, caviar again.

We’re more stuffed than the potato at this point, but we still manage dessert. Our Pie of the Day (S$18) is a chocolate tart topped with gold-painted hazelnuts that recalls Ferrero Rocher. It’s a little too sweet for our tastes, so we get a whisky sour to cut through the richness too.

Corduroy Palace is located at 110 Amoy Street, Gemmill Ln, #01-02, Singapore 069930, p. +65 9754 3897. Open Mon-Sat 3pm–10.30pm. Closed Sun.