Restaurant Review: Akanoya Robatayaki Presents A Modern Japanese Grill Experience in Tanglin, Singapore

Between walking up to its expansive facade and as the automatic doors of swish open, the curious feeling of an other-worldly encounter mounts when one enters Akanoya Robatayaki. Greeting guests with a robatayaki dining counter that seats 12, with the full force of fresh and premium Japanese ingredients on display, the restaurant by Akashi Group serves up a modern bincho grill experience you’ll be hard pressed to find elsewhere in Singapore.

Opened in 2008, Akanoya Robatayaki underwent a complete renovation this year, spearheaded by second generation restaurateur of Akashi Group, Javier Goh, who is also the company’s Chief Operations Manager. Now complete with dining booths, private rooms, and a bar, the restaurant is helmed by Head Chef Brandon Teo (you might have met him at Jaan, Pollen, or Wanton Seng Noodle Bar) and General Manager William Liou.

At the sleek wooden robatayaki counter, with Japanese lanterns hanging overhead, we kick off our feast with a pair of sunnaku. The Kawahagi (S$14) and Fugu Mirin Bosh (S$14) went down well with cocktails like the bittersweet Negroni spinoff Inner Peace (S$23) from the bar. Both types of dried fish were served with yuzu kosho mayo, which brought out the rich oceanic flavour of the dried leather jacket and the rich umami of the mirin glazed puffer fish.

Next, a trio of skewers fresh off the binchotan grill, each cooked to perfection and savoured all too quickly. The fat of the thinly sliced Buta Bara (S$7) was render nicely, giving the pork belly a nice crisp not unlike bacon, while the Omi Gyu (S$40) close to melted in our mouths. It’s no wonder that Omi beef is considered amongst the top three varietals in Japan. There’s also a meaty Tachiuo – silver beltfish in season during summer – where the mildly-flavoured flesh is best enjoyed together with its crisp and charred skin.

For an extra indulgent treat, don’t miss the Mirugai Liver (S$12). Battered and deep fried, the exterior makes for a delicious textural contrast with the creamy, buttery liver of the geoduck clam.

Those who frequent omakase restaurants or Don Don Donki shoppers will know that fresh Japanese vegetables are something else altogether, which we experience in the Yaki Yasai (S$24). Sitting on fermented garlic puree, the asparagus, for a veggie hater like me, tasted great.

That said, I was more than happy to continue dinner with more seafood in the Kaisen (S$75). Scallop, abalone, crunchy sazae (turbo shellfish), and surf clams were cooked together with mushrooms, soy, and sake before presented in a half scallop shell. A lovely medley of textures with sweet and savoury flavours.

With Japanese rice soaked overnight in dashi and slow cooked in a claypot with the juices of steamed king crab, it’s hard for the Kani Taraba Okayu (S$32) to not be a flavour bomb. The most flavourful rice porridge I’ve ever had, it’s garnished with ikura and a powder of kombu and prawn heads for more oomph.

Our last savoury dish at Akanoya Robatayaki is none other than a luscious cut of  Sankaku Barra (S$98), served with mushroom tempura. Again, they prove themselves to be masters of the grill with the wagyu short rib.

Though we already had to loosen our belts a notch, the Satsumaimo (S$18) was too tasty a dessert to resist. A take on orh nee (a Teochew yam dessert) with Japanese sweet potato, the light paste is uplifted with peach and a touch of ginger.