Café Review: Durian Gets Chic at 99 Old Trees, A Durian Dessert Haven in Teo Hong Road, Singapore

PUBLISHED January 29th, 2022 06:00 am | UPDATED February 3rd, 2022 03:57 pm

Think durian shop and you’ll likely picture an open-air roadside stall, packed with durian lovers digging in around makeshift tables. It’s worlds apart from the chic, café-style space that greets us at 99 Old Trees on Teo Hong Road. Freshly relocated from its well-known spot on Owen Road, this durian haven looks every bit as stylish as its trendy neighbours along Keong Saik, with one major perk: the glorious stink of fresh durian that hits us as soon as we step through the door.

99 Old Trees has built a name not only for their fresh durians from Pahang, but also for their decadent durian desserts crafted by sister brand Stinky. Their new café offers a sleek, comfy space to savour both, with its statement lightbulbs and botanical touches mingled with vintage details.

The first thing you might notice as you sit down is the unique ‘legs’ on the tables. Chief Durian Officer Kelvin Tan shares that their tables were repurposed from antique Flying Man sewing machines – with the cast-iron treadle now serving to hold up the tabletop. Don’t overlook the display niche alongside the seating area, where more priceless relics of olden-day Singapore perch unassumingly. Where else could you admire an antique coal-fuelled iron, loaned by the mother of one staff member?

If you’d rather enjoy your durian outdoors, step outside to the charming alfresco area. An overlooked grass patch by the roadside has been transformed into a breezy hangout, complete with tables upcycled from wood pallets, a little thatched roof, and fairy lights overhead. Here, you’ll have front-row views of colourful durian-themed murals, handpainted by Mural Lingo on the side of the shophouse. We’re told that this is where fresh durians will be sold during the season.

99 Old Trees sources its durians mainly from Fook Gor Durian Farm in Pahang, Malaysia – a family-owned farm that’s home to one of Malaysia’s oldest Musang King trees. Delivered fresh daily, you’ll find your crowd-favourite Mao Shan Wang and D24 alongside other popular picks like Jinfeng and Red Prawn during durian season.

Some of that delicious durian gets turned into a range of Stinky desserts, crafted by in-house pastry chefs Chiak and Guiling. New to the pastry party is their crisp take on durian puffs: the Stinky Bomb (S$1.80 per piece, minimum two pieces). Sink your teeth through the crackly crust of this choux au craquelin, and you’ll meet a rich burst of Mao Shan Wang flesh and light cream. At just S$1.80, it’s got to be one of the most value-for-money flavour bombs around.

Cake lovers can head straight for the second new treat on the menu: the Stinky Roll (S$6.50 per quarter piece, S$25 for a foot long). This Swiss roll involves a satisfyingly thick layer of Mao Shan Wang flesh and French custard cream rolled up in airy Japanese sponge. It’s smooth and milky while staying lightweight – just right for a bite of afternoon tea.

Regulars will be glad to find other crowd-pulling signatures back in the lineup, including the Stinky Bowl (S$5.50++) and Stinky Chendul (S$3). The latter features  housemade Teochew-style chendol with a generous helping of silky pandan jelly and fragrant gula melaka. Toppings of creamy durian flesh (S$2) are optional, but very much essential if you ask us.

Full-on durian feasting does get cloying, so the café has come up with a thoughtful solution: Chinese tea pairings. The team consulted with a tea master from Pek Sin Choon, one of Singapore’s oldest tea merchants, in order to select brews that would pair well with durians. Get one of the three palate-cleansing teas on offer – Pu Erh, Bu Zhi Xiang, and Tie Luo Han (from S$6.50 per pot) – to cut through the ‘heaty’ richness of all that durian.

Need to scrub the durian smell off your fingers after your feast? The café’s thoughtfulness extends to the handwashing area, where you’ll find the sink lined with racks for holding durian husks. Yes, we’re talking about the old trick of rinsing your hands with water flowing over a durian shell. If that sounds odd, let’s just say trying is believing.

99 Old Trees is located at 1 Teo Hong Rd, Singapore 088321, p. +65 9822 2495. Open daily 12pm–9pm.