Restaurant Review: Chef Gaggan Anand’s Ms Maria & Mr Singh Spreads Indian-Mexican Flair in Singapore
PUBLISHED October 27th, 2022 06:00 am | UPDATED November 5th, 2022 11:24 pm
They first fell in love in Bangkok. Now, renowned Chef Gaggan Anand is bringing his fictitious Mexican-Indian characters, Ms Maria and Mr Singh to Singapore‘s Craig Road – the perfect place to fall in love all over again. This time, though, we’re going to be the ones that are doing the falling – with the restaurant’s nonchalant vibe and its finger-licking menu that mainly leans Indian, with hints of home-style Mexican touches.
Brought to Singapore in collaboration with The Proper Concepts Collective (the local hospitality group behind The Feather Blade and RAPPU), the space boasts the brand’s distinctive bright walls and neon signs, but like most restaurants in Singapore, it is a cosy and intimate one. Once you enter you are engulfed in a whole new world, where low hanging rattan lamps and fabric, mosaic tiled walls and bar, as well as an art centrepiece made with shophouse windows and feather accents grab your attention.
As the sign at the restaurant front states ‘love should never be mild’, you’ll find the flavours here are not shy. That’s promised from the very first thing we sample, a refreshing gin & tonic cocktail (S$17) made with the familiar ‘Ajwain’ (Bishop’s Weed) herb used in Indian cooking. This aromatic ingredient is perfect to kickstart the appetite with perky flavours reminiscent of thyme, sage and parsley seeds. As you wait for your meal, dig into the addictive Mixed Chips made with fried sweet purple potato, sweet orange potato, and yellow corn tortilla. Accomplices to the chips are house-made dips such as pickled mango, chili cheese sauce, and guacachutney (green chutney with avocado).
Don’t fill yourself up on the chips though, as the appetisers are not to be missed. Hands down one of the most memorable of the night, the Papdi Chaat (S$18) is simply an indulgence. Turning the Indian street food into a sophisticated hors d’oeuvre, the signature features a yogurt and chaat masala sphere sitting atop a deep fried cracker. One bite reveals intense flavours as the sphere bursts in the mouth. Expect a tangy flavour and a creamy crunchy texture topped off with mint chutney and pomegranate.
On the other hand, the Cold Curry Ceviche (S$20) is perfect for those looking to ease into the spicier foods that follow. Based on the chef’s classic Cold Curry Scallops dish, the perception of the fiery hot curry and spun into a cooler – and raw – version. The leche de tigre (citrus-based marinade), along with corn salsa, cucumbers, and guacachutney lend refreshingly zesty notes. The Spicy Crunchy Okra (S$12) would also appeal to many. Indians can relate this to Pakora (vegetable fritters). In the addictive bite, a fried okra is encased in a crunchy savoury chickpea batter and served with a thick piquant dip of Hung Yogurt.
For mains, delve into the utterly aromatic and flavourful Patrani Fish Tamal (S$30), served otak-otak style with local barramundi wrapped in a banana leaf. The roasted fish is given the Mexican twist with the addition of tamale (a Mexican staple made of corn dough, and steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf) for a smoky, sweet and spicy profile. Up next, the sweet Gaggan’s Crab Curry (S$32) tantalizes the tastebuds with a South Indian curry base comprising coconut, tamarind, raw mango and garam masala along with tender chunks of stir-fried crab meat. As with any Indian affair, round off the meal with a hot pot of Morel Mushroom Biryani (S$28).
For desserts, the Avocado Falooda (S$16) brought us back to our childhood summer trips in India. Traditionally made with vermicelli noodles, ice cream, rose syrup and milk, the dessert has been given a healthy twist at Ms. Maria & Mr Singh with the incorporation of avocado mousse, basil seeds and lemon foam. The Mango Yuzu Snowball (S$24) is a treat for our super-sunny Singapore days. While it incorporates intense flavours from Alphonso mangoes, the yuzu base and white chocolate snow keeps it sweet, citrusy and light.
As with any great restaurant, Ms Maria & Mr Singh boasts its own curated list of bubbles, wines and cocktails. For a spirit-forward nightcap, we recommend finishing off the desserts with the Banana Rhubarb Old-Fashioned (S$22), featuring banana infused Monkey Shoulder blended Scotch, paired with notes of tart rhubarb and orange bitters.
Ms Maria and Mr Singh is located at 43 Craig Rd, Singapore 089681, p. +65 9654 4351 (WhatsApp). Open Wed-Sun 6pm-10.30pm (dinner), Fri-Sun 12pm-3pm (lunch). Closed Mon & Tue.
