Restaurant Review: Fusion Flavours And Mesmerising Mocktails Delight at Hathaway in Dempsey, Singapore
PUBLISHED November 19th, 2020 05:00 am | UPDATED July 28th, 2024 01:47 am
Tucked away in the lush greenery of Dempsey Hill with a warmly lit white-and-brass-toned interior, Hathaway is what fairytales are made of. Its elegant but homely aesthetic extends beyond its decor and into its menu, which combines modern global fare with heritage recipes and Singaporean flavours.
Hathaway is a far cry from the bottomless brunch hotspots that you’re likely to see in the neighbourhood; its uniquely alcohol-free menu is, according to one of its founders Ivan Ting, a mark of respect to the menu’s heritage inspirations from Malay cuisine, which doesn’t allow alcohol.
Tippler or not, their range of bespoke mocktail creations is a must try. These nonalcoholic concoctions traverse a range of flavour profiles and incorporate homemade ferments and well-known zero-proof spirits like Seedlip and Lyre, giving them the depth of flavour you’d expect to find in a regular cocktail.
The Ginger Ale (S$12) features a housemade fermented ginger ale, with a touch of lemon and Lyre’s 0.0 Dark Cane, a refreshing start to the afternoon that paired perfectly with the bold flavours of the Mezze Platter (S$28). Rather than the usual Mediterranean suspects, this platter highlights North Indian classics like baingan bhartha, a smoky minced eggplant dish spiced to perfection, and coconut chutney. Paired with a unique sourdough naan that’s warm and fluffy and slightly tangy, this is one dish you’ll want to tear into with your hands.
One of the stars of the menu is the Wagyu Tenderloin (S$62). Accompanying the deliciously chargrilled Sher Wagyu is essentially a deconstructed noodle dish; a bone broth, that unlike many versions today comes with tendon and tripe, and a topping of rice noodles that have been fried till puffy and crunchy. Truly a joy to munch on after a quick dunk.
Of course, we couldn’t come to Hathaway and not try the dish that started it all: Ah Nya’s Fish Curry (S$32). This heritage recipe from Ivan’s grandmother is preserved faithfully, the only notable change being the replacement of red snapper with local Kühlbarra barramundi, a creamy, fall-off-the-fork tender fish that works amazingly with the spicy curry. Served with an impressive foot-long toasted breadstick, we give them props for presentation.
If you’re a dessert lover, Hathaway’s utterly sinful creations really hit the sweet spot. For something sugary, sharp, and refreshing, go for The Queen’s Conserve (S$16); two discs of flattened, caramelised sugar coated croissant-esque Kouign-amann are the base of the dish, sandwiching a scoop of delicately perfumed lavender ice cream. Passionfruit curd adds a citrusy brightness that cuts through the buttery sweetness for a balanced floral masterpiece.
For something a little more homely but no less indulgent, opt for the Seri Muka (S$16), a take on the classic Malay double-layered kuih. This silky-soft and creamy kuih is accompanied by a pengat pisang gravy and a coconut ice cream that’s inspired by yet another Malay classic, apom berkuah. The telltale blue swirls from butterfly pea flower make its way into the ice cream; truly a picture perfect finish.
Hathaway is located at 13 Dempsey Hill #01-07, Singapore 249674, p. +65 9665 0681. Open Mon — Sat 9am — 10pm.
