PUBLISHED September 19th, 2020 10:00 am | UPDATED September 24th, 2020 10:55 am
Is there anything closer to heaven in a bun than a chunky, buttery lobster roll? It seems like every year or so, a buzzy new crustacean contender hits our shores – yet there’s no tiring of this New England classic. The latest brand to make a splash in Singapore is Luke’s Lobster, whose seafood shack empire has drawn queues across New York and Tokyo.
A good lobster roll starts with great lobster, and Luke’s comes with impeccable credentials. Working directly with fishermen across Maine, founder Luke Holden sources sustainable, wild-caught seafood and flash freezes them to lock in the freshness. These premium crustaceans are then shipped to his many shacks and food trucks – 22 in the U.S plus ten across Japan, and now, one in Singapore’s very own Orchard Road.
Care has been taken to channel the laidback Luke’s experience in the most unlikely of places – a departmental store. Set in a corner of Isetan Scotts’ beauty section, this 23-seater ‘shack’ is fitted out with rustic wooden planks, neon signs, and cheeky lobster buoys. It feels a little odd preparing to feast on seafood amidst a sea of cosmetics counters, but you’ll quickly forget the strangeness when the scent of sweet lobster and melted butter hits you.
The opening menu is a short list of Luke’s signature hits – Crab Roll (S$23.50), Shrimp Roll (S$21.50), and of course, the Maine-style Lobster Roll (S$25.50). Each 4oz bun comes slicked with just a touch of mayo and generously stuffed with seafood. It’s then drizzled over with lemon butter and Luke’s secret herb seasoning (celery salt and garlic powder are reportedly involved).
Does the Lobster Roll live up to the hype? Yes – if you like your rolls light and clean. The mayo is barely there and the seasoning is a faint whisper, but this allows the lobster flesh to truly shine. And Luke’s does anything but skimp on the lobster – the ample chunks are sweet, succulent, and nicely balanced by the tangy lemon butter. Stuffed in a fluffy bun that’s perfectly crisp-toasted on the outside, it’s a refreshing change from the rich, creamy versions we’re more familiar with.
Luke’s other seafood rolls, though, aren’t content to play second fiddle – in fact, we reckon the Crab Roll might give the signature lobster a run for its money. This toasty roll is overflowing with sweet Jonah crabmeat from Rhode Island, offering fine, flaky textures with each bite. Meanwhile, the Shrimp Roll sees tiny shrimps from Eastern Canada transformed into buttery bombs of briny goodness. If you can’t decide which to pick, go big and get all three with Luke’s Trio (S$33.50) – a sampler set of half-sized rolls.
There’s no such thing as too much seafood when you’re at Luke’s, so pair your roll with some Clam Chowder (S$11.50) or Lobster Bisque (S$12.90). With sweet potatoes, onions, and other veggies pureed into a velvety soup, our hearty bowl of bisque won our hearts (and filled our stomachs) fast. For something to cut through all that richness, Luke’s Homemade Lemonade (S$6.50) is unexpectedly tart and sharp – none of that saccharine lemon cordial here.
Later this year, you can expect two gooey newcomers to the menu: the Lobster Grilled Cheese and Crab Grilled Cheese. We got an early taste of this ultimate comfort food, and let’s just say we’ll be back for more when they hit the menu. There’s just no going wrong with meaty seafood chunks on a bed of mild, melty cheese, is there?
If you’re wondering how to beat the queues on opening day this Wednesday, online pre-orders for takeaway are already open on Luke’s website. The brand also has big plans to roll out islandwide delivery in the coming months. We might not be able to travel to eat this year, but it looks like some of our food is swimming to us instead.
Luke’s Lobster Singapore opens on 23 September 2020 at 350 Orchard Road #01-K4, Shaw House, Isetan Scotts, Singapore 238868, p. +65 6592 7642. Open daily 10am–9pm.