Getting off the Beaten Track in Borneo

PUBLISHED February 13th, 2014 12:00 am | UPDATED January 19th, 2016 03:49 pm

The mention of a trip to Borneo can sometimes be met with furrowed brows and slightly puzzled expressions. Borneo seems to have escaped the bucket list for many travellers, passed up for the well-known beach haunts of Thailand and Indonesia. But for me, Borneo’s unfamiliarity was part of its intrigue, part of the thrill of adventure that spurs on any nomad.

Borneo is the largest island in Asia and is divided among three different countries – Indonesia in the South and Malaysia and Brunei in the North. The Malaysian Borneo states of Sarawak and Sabah offer nature, excitement and escapism for every traveller. And with direct flights from Singapore, it’s the perfect weekend getaway for an off-the-beaten-track adventure.

How to Get There

From Singapore you can fly to Kuching in the Malaysian province of Sarawak in just over an hour. Malaysian Airlines, Air Asia and Silk Air all offer flights and some healthy airline competition results in competitive prices, generally around S$200 for the return journey.

Once in Sarawak, some hotels will arrange transfers and tours from the airport, but it’s easy and affordable to plan your own route and get around by taxi. The 45-minute taxi trip to our accommodation cost 60 Malaysian Ringgit (approx. S$20).

Unique Accommodation Options

Permai Rainforest Resort’s Treehouse, Image courtesy of Permai Rainforest Resort.

While Borneo has all the boutique hotels and luxury resorts you’d expect these days, what makes the country more memorable is its inventive and unique accommodation options. Think traditional thatched-roofed bungalows, rustic beach chalets or wooden villas stilted in crystal clear waters off the coast.

We stayed at Permai Rainforest Resort, an eco-lodge set in pristine rainforest in the cusp of the South China Sea. The retreat’s tree houses are raised 20 feet above the ground so you sleep in the forest canopy, and at 310 Ringgit a night (S$118) it certainly doesn’t break the bank either. Waking up to the sounds of chirping birds and waves lapping against the shore beats waking up to an alarm clock any day!

Getting back in touch with nature

Borneo’s rainforests are some of the oldest in the world, and you only have to look at the towering trees and twisting vines to realise the power and beauty of nature. More than half of Borneo’s land area is covered by rainforests, which house literally thousands of different plants and animals.

The rainforest heart of Borneo is its center for biodiversity and an important refuge for many endangered species like the Asian elephant, rhinos and the Bornean clouded leopard. You only have to gaze over Borneo’s sprawling expanse of green to feel the serenity and appreciate the magnificence of nature.

Get your adventure on

If you’re the kind of traveller that gets bored going to endless museums, or gets fidgety sitting on the beach all day, then Borneo is for you. The country is action-packed and full of energetic and adventurous activities to keep you on your toes.

If you want to experience Borneo’s natural wonders try jungle trekking, climbing the legendary Mount Santubong, or hiking overnight into the rainforests depths. Gunung Mulu National Park also features Mount Mulu and one of the largest cave systems in the world. When you fancy something a little more laid back there is also sea kayaking, cycling, snorkelling and dolphin watching around the island.

Beaches with a Twist

The view of Borneo’s Beaches from Permai Rainforest Resort. Image courtesy of Permai Rainforest Resort.

We’ve all been on a beach before. Heck, even Singapore has a beach. Sure, it’s man-made and crowded but it still passes as a beach. But if you’re a real beach aficionado, Borneo delivers. Imagine sheer cliffs and lush rainforests cascading dramatically to white sands, rocky headlands and jungle streams – it’s basically right out of a scene from Jurassic Park.

There are also golden sandy islands dotted all around Borneo’s borders in the Santubong Peninsula, and the Turtle Islands in particularly are worthy of note. This cluster of islands are a sanctuary for marine green turtles and every year from June to October you can spot them coming ashore to lay their eggs and hatch their young.

Orangutans in the Wild

Orangutans in Borneo, Image courtesy of Orangutan Foundation International.

The Borneo jungle provides one of the few lasting reserves for endangered orangutans, and any traveller to Borneo should make the trip to see these majestic creatures. I made my way to The Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (about 30 minutes from Kuching airport) preparing myself for a zoo, and the general sense of unease you get from seeing wild animals in a cage, but was incredibly surprised and impressed by the set up at Semenggoh.

The centre, on the border of the Semenggoh Nature Reserve, cares for injured and orphaned orangutans and focuses on rehabilitation and re-release into the reserve. Try to arrive for one of the twice-daily feedings; it’s a joy to watch the orangutans swinging freely through the trees. Take the time to explore the nature trails at Semenggoh too, as well as wild orangutans you can spot gibbons, colourful lizards and porcupines amongst the trees.

Escapism

If the pressures of Singapore city living are getting to you, Borneo can offer you the peace and tranquility of nature. Sometimes to grow and appreciate what we have, we need to get back to basics and enjoy the simple pleasures and beauty of life. You’ll be hard pressed to find wifi in Borneo anyway, so make the most of it – turn off your mobile, forget your emails and soak up all the glory of mother nature.

Stretching your dollar

(Or, in the case of Borneo, your Ringgit). With the cost of living in Singapore we can sometimes forget that there are many bargains to be had elsewhere in South East Asia. Borneo offers adventure, culture and natural beauty in close proximity to Singapore and at a fraction of the cost of other destinations. It should definitely be on the travel list for any adventurous nomad!