Restaurant Bar Review: Neon Pigeon 2.0 Takes Flight with A New Raw Bar & More Playful Tipples at Carpenter Street, Singapore
PUBLISHED November 27th, 2020 09:37 am | UPDATED May 31st, 2023 02:09 pm
Pigeons are hardy creatures, and Neon Pigeon is happily no different. Keong Saik Road‘s much-loved izakaya made headlines when it announced its closure this July, but it didn’t take long to home in on a bigger, buzzier nest on Carpenter Street. Just relaunched in end-November, Pigeon 2.0 comes with a sleek new raw bar, a flock of tipples ruled by shochu and Japanese whisky, and the same electric air of a party just waiting to break out.
Regulars will find a familiar welcome from wall-to-wall murals of pigeons strutting their stuff. Street artist ZERO (Zulkarnaen Othman) – who did the Keong Saik space’s iconic graffiti – has worked his technicolored magic again, including a remake of the beloved Mike Tyson-meets-pigeon piece now framing the raw bar. The 2,100-sq-ft space feels more airy but is otherwise as grungy-glam as ever, with exposed concrete walls and a playlist of Japanese hiphop at ear-splitting volumes.
Flip through what looks like a manga novel on your table for an expanded lineup of cocktails, many paying homage to anime characters. New bar manager Andy Griffiths (formerly at Idlewild) has transformed Japanese spirits and produce into some cheeky twists on classics – the Sheng Long & Tonic (S$20), for one, has earthy notes and a deliciously toasty finish thanks to shochu, toasted rice, and rice vinegar.
The Nikka 75 (S$20) takes the French 75 for a walk on the dark, sweet side with caramel-forward Nikka From The Barrel, Choya Umeshu, and black sugar. Spice fiends, on the other hand, can opt for the A To G(roni) (S$21), featuring togarashi-laced vermouth with a gentle heat that creeps up on the finish. There’s also a sizeable stash of sakes including nigori and sparkling options, but special mention goes to the Neon Pigeon Sake (S$40, 180ml bottle) – a dry, floral junmai daiginjo brewed for Neon Pigeon by Tenryo Brewery in Gifu.
Helming the kitchen is Head Chef Paul Lim, an import from fellow Dandy Collection restaurant Fat Prince. His menu overhaul is a mashup of old hits and playful new plates, all in small or large servings for easy sharing (or should we say pecking?)
Your first order of business, of course, should be with the sexy new raw bar and its medley of crudos and sashimi. The Kumamoto Oysters (S$16 for two) make a plump, creamy slurp to kick off our meal, jazzed up with smoked dashi gelée and French chives. An old face in the lineup is the tangy-spicy Seabream Sashimi (S$22) brushed with yuzu kosho oil, but we’re distracted by the Horse Mackerel Crudo (S$24) – it’s not often you see horse mackerel on the menu, after all. Fresh, clean slices of horse mackerel are sprinkled with crisp garlic bits and tempura nori for a fun play of textures.
Back on the ‘birdfeed’ section is the addictive Tokyo Hummus (S$10/18), a smoky cult-favourite made with edamame and paired with curry chips. We reckon the Chicken Liver Mousse (S$16/30) might kickstart new addictions though – layered with cereal crumbs and yuzu kosho jam, the mousse makes a surprisingly sweet, silky mess that you scoop up with triangles of toasted brioche. The Tamagoyaki Omelette (S$12/22) is set to be a staple too – this egg roll comes as thick and juicy as you could wish, topped with ikura and crispy salmon skin.
Veggies are downright indulgent here, what with options like Yuzu Kosho Cauliflower (S$12/20). These florets are dry-fried with dashi to a deep and nutty char, arriving cradled in buttery purée. If there’s just one dish you need to get, though, make it the Sweet Cornrice (S$16/30). Think sweet rice with an egg yolk stirred in for risotto-like creaminess, studded with chunks of grilled corn and tempura seaweed. It’s pure comfort food.
Fans of the Smoked Baby Back Ribs (S$23/44) will be glad to welcome it back on the meat lineup, as tender and well-glazed with sake barbecue sauce as ever. Don’t miss out on the perfectly moist New Zealand Cod Katsu (S$19/36), which comes drizzled in smoked fish jus and covered in bonito flakes.
Now on its third iteration, the Bonsai 3.0 (S$13) goes fruity with freeze-dried raspberries and dark chocolate mousse on crunchy matcha ‘soil’. For a palate-cleanser to close the night, though, opt for the tart Yuzu Brulee (S$12) with Yakult sorbet and creamy sesame meringue, scattered over generously with miso granola.
Neon Pigeon is located at 36 Carpenter St, #01-01, Singapore 059915, p. +65 31297551. Open daily 5.30pm-12am.
Top Image: Owen Raggett
