Restaurant Review: Park Bench Deli Returns with A Bigger Space and New All-Day Menu on Telok Ayer, Singapore
PUBLISHED May 3rd, 2021 06:00 am | UPDATED May 8th, 2021 05:04 pm
You know how they say time is relative? Two months, in restaurant time, is pretty short for a full-on overhaul of the space and grub; on the other hand, it’s forever to hungry diners deprived of their regular lunch fix. So to call Park Bench Deli‘s relaunch after a two-month hiatus long-awaited might be hyperbole, but not by much. Now evolved from a sandwich joint into an all-day eatery, this Telok Ayer mainstay is back and bigger in every way – from a menu that stretches beyond sammies to a full-fledged bar.
The Park Bench Deli of old was pretty much a hole in the wall – big in energy but low on elbow space. Helmed by designer Dean Chew (better known by his DJ name Funk Bast*rd), the interior revamp opens up a surprising amount of room hitherto walled off at the back of the shophouse. The 42-seater space now fits a cheery bar with counter seating alongside an open kitchen, where you can watch the team slicing and stuffing PBD’s notoriously thick stacks. A skylight lets in floods of natural light, with white tiling and blue walls accenting the American diner look.
American soul food is at the heart of PBD’s expanded menu, venturing far beyond grilled cheese and PB&J territory into lesser-known regional comforts. Crafted by San Fran-raised founder Andrei Soen, new head chef Matt Kuhnemann, and senior chef Ben Phoon, the fresh lineup sees meaty mains and desserts joining the sandwich fray. They’ve also pulled together a new breakfast menu of fry-ups and pancakes, available from 9am to 3pm.
Treats to ring in the workday sweet include the simple Brioche Toast (S$5) with spreads to downright indulgent Lemon Ricotta Hotcakes (S$20). These unbelievably fluffy flips melt in the mouth together with housemade ricotta, maple syrup, and a slathering of sweet lemon curd.
On the savoury side, you can’t go wrong with the Breakfast Sandwich (S$15) – an easy-to-love combo of Spam and omelette fried into one crisp, satisfying bundle. It comes dripping with creamy Swiss cheese and encased between airy slices of white bread. But for something more unusual, head for the Hangtown Fry (S$20), a riff on the one-skillet Californian classic invented during the 1850s Gold Rush. PBD’s version brings together crunchy-fried oysters, smoked bacon, and a cheesy omelette on one plate – think the sinful lovechild of orh luak and big breakfast.
The sandwich party kicks off from 11am. Regulars will be glad to see the crowd-favourite Pastrami (S$24) back with its tasty, get-your-mouth-messy stuffing of smoked beef brisket in sourdough. Their updated Grilled Cheese (S$15), meanwhile, gets a funkier bite with blue cheese and prosciutto.
Fresh to the slate of thick stacks is the Italian Hero (S$18), which stars lush layers of house-smoked duck ham, mortadella, and pepperoni. Sweet pepperoncini peppers are laid atop, and the whole tender mess is held together with creamy provolone – the soft roll it comes in can barely contain it. Then there’s the Porchetta (S$18), packed with fatty chunks of pork, kohlrabi, and jalapeños all sandwiched in chewy ciabatta. Cleanse your palate with a crisp, fresh Lettuce Wedge (S$8) – a hunk of iceberg lettuce drizzled in buttermilk – or go classic with Tater Tots (S$8).
If the sandwich selection has rather shrunk from before, that’s down to the bold new lineup of mains joining the show. Don’t miss out on the Kalbi Loco Moco (S$36), which puts a Korean twist on a Hawaiian diner classic. Think slow-braised short ribs smothered in red-eye gravy (a bittersweet-savoury Southern specialty made from ham drippings and black coffee), with a double carb helping of fried rice and macaroni salad on the side.
There’s also a refreshed drinks program crafted by Jeremy Chua, former head bartender at 28 Hong Kong St and currently APAC hospitality and creative director for LA craft distillery AMASS. Besides an expanded range of natural wines by the glass and bottle, he’s whipped up a quartet of nostalgic American cocktails too.
The Peach Fuzz (S$18) is a summery number of AMASS Vodka, peach liqueur, and lemon cordial – adding up to a ripe brew that reminded us of boozy Pokka peach tea, but in the best way. It’s worth giving the quirky Pickle Back Old Fashioned (S$18) a shot too. Garnished with a frickle (aka deep-fried pickle), its blend of Buffalo Trace Bourbon with house-pickled brine make for a tangy, umami shock to the throat.
Park Bench Deli is located at 179 Telok Ayer St, Singapore 068627, p. +65 8892 0408. Open Tues-Sun 9am–10.30pm. Closed Mon.
