Review: Tenshima Elevates The Art Of Tempura At Millenia Walk Singapore
PUBLISHED November 9th, 2023 06:00 am | UPDATED July 25th, 2024 04:26 pm
While Tempura is synonymous with Japanese cuisine, its origins trace back to Portuguese missionaries. This method of deep-frying lightly battered food arrived on the shores of Nagasaki, Japan in the 16th century. Named after the Latin term “ad tempora cuaresme”, translating to “in the time of Lent”, this Portuguese snack is a dupe fish dish consumed during Lent. Not only inspired a new method of preserving food for Japanese travellers, it’s found a place in the hearts of people. Now, it takes its place in fine dining omakase at Tenshima.
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The Space
The sleek entrance opens up to an extended genkan adorned with Japanese art and Ikebana, serving as a artful gateway from the crowded outdoors. Inside, the intimate dining space boasts rich wood and bamboo accents, evoking the ambiance of a traditional Ryokan. Select furnishings, such as the hinoki countertop and door panels, were crafted in Japan and installed by skilled Japanese artisans flown in for the task. Even the dishware, personally sourced by the chef, is handmade by Japanese craftsmen.
Seated at the counter, it’s not hard to notice the pristine state of the open kitchen. Chef Takahiro Shima’s precision leaves the space free from oil splatters and messy batters is a departure from the typical deep-frying experience. Instead, you’ll hear gentle sizzles and witness Chef Shima’s meticulous culinary skills in action. Our Omakase Dinner (S$400++ per pax) experience included seven kinds of tempura, a seasonal dish, and three premium tempura, together with an appetiser, palate cleanser, choice of tendon or tencha, and a dessert. For a starter experience, opt for the Omakase Lunch (S$180++ per pax).
Appetisers
Our trio of appetisers started with a refreshingly tangy Chrysanthemum Ohitashi served with a deep-fried and marinated Kinmedai. Bonito sashimi followed, with an elevated shoyu made with foie gras paste and boiled mirin. What really hit the spot was the Negima Konabe, a comforting and flavourful soup with grilled leek and tuna, flavoured with dashi, mirin and light shoyu.
The Art of Tempura
In true omakase style, Chef Shima paces his preparations to our dining tempo, ensuring our tempura is served hot and crisp. Each ingredient is coated or brushed with a light batter – made with cake flour, egg yolk, filtered water and ice cubes – then deep-fried in light sunflower oil. Add in Chef’s unwavering dedication to perfection, and you’ll find a fresh batch of tempura batter is made every 30 minutes, to prevent the formation of gluten.
Chef relies on his keen sense of hearing and sight to know if an ingredient is ready. He is so precise, there is no double cooking. We were pleasantly surprised with the clean and light textures; no dripping oil, no greasiness in the mouth. With its thin and crispy layer, we could fully savour the natural flavours of each ingredient. Alongside familiar ingredients like Japanese Tiger Prawns, Maitake Mushroom and Sea Bream, the dinner omakase also spotlight lesser-known ingredients like A5 Miyazaki Tenderloin, Shark’s Fins, Awabi, and sashimi-grade Hotate. Chef’s skills really shine through the seafood, where the fresh sweetness and umami flavours are retained.
Rounding Off the Meal
We love rounding out the meal with rice in a tendon or tencha. In tendon, kakiage (vegetable tempura) is drizzled over with a homemade tendon sauce made from prawn head stock, dashi, sake and brown sugar. Tencha is served with kakiage and a clear broth of ichiban dashi seasoned with shoyu. To cap off this experience, dessert is a creamy sweet potato, steamed and dry-aged before deep frying, served with a side of milk ice cream.
The experience was made even cosier with the warm attention from the service staff, especially the chef’s wife, who doubles up as a translator for the chef. Reservations are highly-recommended to snag a seat at this intimate 10-seater restaurant.
Tenshima is located at 9 Raffles Boulevard, #01-09 Millenia Walk, Singapore 039596, p.+65 6226 6666. Open Tue-Wed, Thu 6pm-10.30pm, Fri 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm- 10.30pm, Sat-Sun 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm. Closed on Mon.
