Restaurant Review: White Shades, An Artful Exploration of Colour and Flavour

PUBLISHED February 16th, 2024 06:00 am | UPDATED July 25th, 2024 04:24 pm

Six months since it’s unveiling, White Shades has defined itself as an innovative space that aims to captivate guests with a kaleidoscope of sensations. Now, with the launch of their first official menu, COLOURS, the highlights are segmented into four themes featuring 22 colourful cocktails crafted by founder Jiawei Bai and his talented team at White Shades. Much like an artist with a canvas, each artfully crafted drink category expresses unique qualities: Clear showcases innovative clarified cocktails; Mark emphasises the vivid hues of ingredients; Mood plays on flavour profiles and mouthfeel; and Flavours playfully influences how we perceive tastes of different shades.

Stepping into the four-storied shophouse located on Boon Tat Street, each vibrantly transformed level reflects unique stories – Sweet, a dessert cafe for caffeine and sweet fixes; Synthesis, the main bar space serving the COLOURS menu; Soiree, a personal event space for any occasion; and Sunset, their rooftop bar overlooking the city view.

Our initial taste adventure introduced us to the Pintan (S$16) — a crispy vol-au-vent shell cradling a century egg and tofu mixture, adorned with a savoury shoyu sauce. While century egg on its own has garnered mixed reviews from the masses due to it’s complex flavour profile, it was the perfect bite for us as the century egg contributed ideal salty and umami notes, harmonising seamlessly with the velvety parcel.

Complementing this delight was the Fresh Pink (S$25) from the “Mood” column of the menu – a refreshing herbaceous fusion of Altos Reposado Tequila and Sparkling Pink Coconut Water garnished with a basil rhubarb stick that alters the flavour profile and mouthfeel of the cocktail upon taking a bite. Jiawei’s insider tip is to nibble the tangy rhubarb between sips for an added burst of bright citrus flavours which enhanced this well-balanced libation.

A true feast awaited us for the second pairing. We began with their complementary Housemade Toasted Focaccia with Buah Keluak butter – an indulgent start. Next emerged the succulent Ribs ($18), cloaked in a glistening glaze of kicap manis and terasi – sweet soy sauce and lemongrass – that adhered well to each meaty bone. Crispy bits of fried garlic added texture and bite to the balanced salty-sweet profile. Alongside was the Tagliatelle (S$20), spotlighting handmade strands of its namesake pasta tossed in a savoury sesame oil and cooking wine base, then wreathed with spinach leaves and lap cheong slivers for gentle sweetness.

Our favourite of the night hands down has to be the crispy yet tender Samayo Fish Tacos ($10). Red cabbage crunched alongside the battered flakey fish inside soft taco shells, while the house-made sambal mayo tied it all together. That sublime blend of spicy, sour and creamy had us hooked from the very first mouthwatering bite.

For the drink pairing, we were served the Sparkle Pearl (S$25) from the “Flavours” section – featuring Moët Chandon, dill, pickled fruits and herbs in a champagne flute with pickled onion and green apple perched atop the glass rim. This unique cocktail particularly intrigued us as the savoury notes shone more boldly than previous drinks, almost evocative of a cheeseburger thanks to the pickled components. Jiawei tipped us off to first nibble the tart apple and onion before dunking them into the drink – allowing their briny tang to infuse the mixture with another lively layer of flavour.

Saving the best for last, the final pairing spotlighted White Shades’ signature WS “Jerk” Chicken (S$26) – succulent meat marinated in aromatic allspice and thyme before hitting the grill. This imparted a smoky depth, heightened by spicy flourishes from the herbs. Served alongside was a cooling raita, an Indian yogurt side dish providing balance through its gentle tangy creaminess.

Pairing with this spicy dish is the White III (S$25) coming from the “Mark” part of the menu – blending Belvedere vodka, Shiroi Chardonnay, and sweet umeshu liqueur into a harmony of sweet, sour and refreshing notes in a cool tiki-style glass. Topping it off was a shard of crispy milk “skin” that took us way back, tasting just like the childhood rabbit candy. This drink knocked it out of the park for us – blending flavours so seamlessly while bringing that playful nostalgia as well.

As an added treat before dessert took the spotlight, we were delighted with an extra drink – Clear Yellow (S$25) from the “Clear” section of the menu. Crafted with Maker’s Mark bourbon, mango, sweet corn, and a milk-washed mango corn leather chip derived from dehydrated mango and sweet corn pulp, this tipple offered a velvety and rich flavour profile. The infusion of sweetness and fruity notes from the added ingredients provided a delightful twist. Moreover, the playful element of biting into the mango corn leather chip added an extra layer of sweetness that paired seamlessly with the drink.

Finally, we come to the dessert that capped off the meal – the Yoghurt Strawmato (S$14). This creative dish featured a white chocolate yoghurt mousse and a strawmato – a strawberry and tomato fusion – confit, beautifully adorned with crisp meringue shards and tender tomato sponge pieces. Perched atop it all was an intricately-crafted tomato tuile adding textural contrast. Though an unlikely flavour pairing, the sweet strawberries and savoury tomatoes came together in this light and well-balanced dessert. With each bite, the novel interplay of fruity sweetness and umami brightness reminded us of a Virgin Bloody Mary.

Ultimately, creativity lies at the core of White Shades, with every detail thoughtfully designed to embody a spirit of innovation. This ethos shone through in their new menu, which did not fail to deliver on the restaurant’s promise of an unforgettable dining experience defined by inventive execution from start to finish.

White Shades is located at 25 Boon Tat Street, Singapore 069622, p. +65 8575 8578. Open Mon-Sat 11am to 12am (Level 1), 5pm to 12am (Level 2 and Level 4).

All images courtesy of White Shades.