[CLOSED] Bar Review: Levant Breezes In With Mediterranean Tipples, Mezze, and Rooftop Views on Tras Street, Singapore
PUBLISHED April 22nd, 2021 06:00 am | UPDATED April 24th, 2024 04:41 pm
We’ve got a whole sea of Mediterranean restaurants in Singapore, yet hardly any watering holes dedicated to this lively, liquor-rich region. So the latest concept from the ilLido Group – the folks behind Italian hotspots like Amò, Braci, and Gemma – comes like a fresh breeze to our tippling scene. Dubbed Levant, this alfresco bar brings whiffs of the Mediterranean coast to our travel-starved senses, with well-crafted libations and a fun selection of mezze.
Well-hidden on the roof of co-living concept ST Signature Tanjong Pagar, Levant offers charming views over the surrounding shophouses. Still, Singapore’s barflies have clearly found it – the sprawling 60-seater bar filled up swiftly on the Thursday night we were there. Decked in vibrant orange hues and floating geometric lighting, it’s a scenic – if somewhat humid – spot to toast the sunset.
The tipple itinerary amounts to a voyage through the storied, sun-warmed lands lining the Mediterranean coast, from Greece to Lebanon to Israel. Don’t expect just nods to Mediterranean flavours either – there’s an impressive commitment here to using not only lesser-known spirits but liqueurs and produce from the region.
Take Greek Forest (S$18), a fragrant ode to the cypresses and pines that once covered Greece’s largest island of Crete. Tsipouro – a kind of Greek grappa distilled from grape pomace – is sweetened with honeycomb and shaken with Greek vermouth and mountain pine liquor, yielding a herbaceous, woody potion. Or savour a pinch of the mythical with Moondust (S$18), which features a dash of mastiha – an ancient Chios liqueur flavoured with grassy, bittersweet mastic resin, once celebrated for its healing powers. Mixed with almond-laced vodka, it’s tangy and ripe with peach and pistachio notes.
From Crete, we set sail for Lebanon’s fabled port city of Byblos – one of the world’s most ancient inhabited cities. Drop anchor with Levantine Shore (S$20), a tangy blend of pisco, Italicus bergamot liqueur, and fassionala (aka 1930s fruit punch). Fresh and fruity, it’s a sophisticated beach-sipper for Byblos’ laidback sands. Meanwhile, Il Rhubarb Sour (S$18) offers a tart burst of rhubarb and hibiscus, though somewhat overpowered by Monkey Shoulder whisky.
Apricot Clouds (S$22) sends us drifting down the Mediterranean coast to Lebanon’s vibrant capital, Beirut. Metaxa 12 Stars – an aged Greek spirit made from brandy, Muscat wines, and Mediterranean herbs – lends it plenty of stone fruit ripeness, and candied apricot as well as anise round off this sweet, silky elixir.
Our next port of call is Israel’s second city, Tel Aviv – a blend of buzzy beach paradise and thrumming cultural capital. Paint the town red with Crimson Bite (S$18), a mouth-puckering yet easy-drinking mix of vodka infused with Greek sour cherries, orange liqueur, and cardamom bitters. Meanwhile, the Pomona Potion (S$18) weaves its spice-rich, syrupy spell with genever (a Dutch gin-like spirit with nutty notes) alongside white balsamic and pear vincotto.
We like that teetotalers aren’t left high and dry at Levant either, with a stellar trio of mocktails to pick from. Our guilt-free indulgence of the night is the Honeycombers (S$18) – think herbaceous Seedlip Garden 108, cardamom, and honeycomb in one spiced, sweet number.
Cuisine-wise, there’s a wide range of hot and cold mezze seasoned with fun twists. Start off with some fabulously creamy Avocado Hummus (S$16), dotted with chickpeas and made for polishing off with pita bread. You’ll want more pita bread for the gooey, stretchy Baked Cheese (S$22) layered with tangy pomegranate molasses and roasty pumpkin seed dukkah – our only complaint is that it hardens too quickly.
The Whitebait Fish Fries (S$18) are an inventive bite, where whitebait comes in deep-fried strips and accompanied by a fiery, smoky harissa yoghurt dip. But our vote for favourite of the night goes to the Smoked Duck & Truffle Samosas (S$18). Served piping hot, these crisp-skinned samosas give way to melt-in-the-mouth duck and just a hint of truffle. Yum.
Levant is located at ST Signature Tanjong Pagar, Level 4, 32 Tras Street, Singapore 078972, p. +65 6304 3298. Open daily 4pm–10.30pm.
Top Image: Moondust
