Restaurant Review: Gemma Is Beppe De Vito’s Sexy New Steakhouse In National Gallery Singapore
PUBLISHED November 14th, 2020 06:00 am | UPDATED November 22nd, 2020 03:29 pm
Beppe De Vito is clearly not a chef to rest on his laurels (or to rest very much, in all likelihood). Fresh off the launch of his cloud kitchen Grammi in June, the Michelin-starred restaurateur is pushing boundaries again with another pithily-named offering, this time on the finer end of the spectrum. Taking cues from the summer traditions of Italian steakhouses, Gemma joins the rare few restaurants in Singapore to serve up bistecca alla fiorentina – though its appeal extends beyond just meat.
Tucked atop National Gallery Singapore, Gemma takes over the elegant space that housed sister ilLido concept Art (which, in its turn, once took over the now-defunct Aura). This switcheroo means that old patrons of Art might be hit by déjà vu upon strolling in – the mirrored ceilings, gleaming brass details, and vibrant orange banquettes are all familiar. Rich terracotta hues add a sensual warmth, with striking geometric accents across one wall. Of course, the cocktail trolley parked there is pretty eye-catching too.
The cocktail list skews classic with just three options, but don’t mistake that for boring. Take the Gemma Spritz (S$22), which features citrusy, chocolatey Metaxa 12-Star brandy and chinotto – a soft drink made from the bitter fruit of the myrtle-leaved orange tree. Or the Gemma Negroni (S$22), which comes smooth and spice-rich with herbaceous Sabatini Tuscan Gin, Tarocco orange peel-infused marsala, and Cynar.
Gemma might dub itself a steakhouse, but its seafood gems threaten to steal the show. For starters, the Krystale Oysters (S$54/half dozen), arriving in all their frothy glory, are enough to make anyone’s jaw drop. Think large, sweet Normandy oysters whose liquor is made even headier by 50-year-old sherry vinegar, swathed with citrus bubbles recalling sea foam.
From the in-house curing room comes fish cuts like Tea Smoked Ora King Salmon (S$28). Renowned for its buttery texture, the salmon unfurls in lush, lightly smoky slices that melt on the tongue. There’s tart sheep milk panna acida for balance, but we’d rather just savour the richness. The Challans Duck Prosciutto (S$28) is just as imaginative, with feather-thin slices of duck topped with a crumbly, earthy ‘soil’ of Taggiasche olives and tangy dollops of cassis jam.
The pastas are far from an afterthought – this is an Italian restaurant, after all. For all-out umami, the Cappelletti Pasta (S$58) comes tossed with Maine lobster chunks and bathed in a sea urchin emulsion that we scraped up to the last drop. The simple Spaghetti ‘Monograno Felicetti’ Cacio & Pepe (S$28), though, manages to be no less sinful – silky strands of organic semolina hugged with cheesy goodness, and finished with black pepper freshly ground at your table.
Indeed, tableside theatre is a hallmark of this steakhouse – we get to see our T-Bone Fiorentina Steak (S$25/100g) carved and drizzled with olive oil right in front of us. It’s rare to find a local restaurant serving Florentine-style steak, and Gemma’s is a massive, 30-days dry-aged marvel. Seared to a crusty char in the josper oven, this large-format steak is as deep red and luscious as you could wish on the inside. Get a side of Whipped Agria Potato (S$16) – a phenomenally fluffy, creamy mash – to amp up the indulgence.
Save room for dessert because the calories are worth it. There’s a downright decadent Pistachio Marzipan Soufflé (S$24) with deep, dark Moka ganache and Grappa-laced custard; meanwhile, the Roasted Round Figs (S$20) will transport you straight to the Mediterranean, with their jammy sweetness sharpened by binchotan-smoked fior di latte gelato. Chalk up another strong showing for a steakhouse that proves stellar on all fronts.
Gemma is located at 1 St Andrews Road, #05-03 National Gallery, Singapore 178957, p. +65 8787 0977. Open Tues-Sun 12pm–2.30pm and 6.30pm–10.30pm. Closed Mon.
Top Image: Tea Smoked Ora King Salmon
