Restaurant Review: Barcelona’s Iconic Tapas 24 Brings Its Famed Bikini Sandwiches to Robertson Quay, Singapore
PUBLISHED June 8th, 2021 05:00 am | UPDATED June 11th, 2021 10:41 am
One of the many things we’re thankful for during this global shutdown is that we’ve still got a world of cuisines on our doorstep – literally, in the case of delivery services, but also thanks to no shortage of overseas brands hitting our shores. Hot on the heels of acclaimed imports like Israeli eatery Miznon and Argentinian burger bar Carne now comes a sunny slice of Spain – Tapas 24.
One of Barcelona’s buzziest tapas bars, Tapas 24 has pulled in the crowds and popped up in gourmet guides since Michelin-starred chef Carles Abellán launched it in 2006. This Singapore outpost on Robertson Quay is their first Asian venture, brought over in collaboration with L’Angélus Group – the folks behind European concepts like L’Angélus and Les Bouchons.
Perched on the riverfront, Tapas 24 Singapore strives to capture the electric vibes of the original. The interior draws inspiration from pioneering Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi, with a voluptuous palette of reds, blues, and bold geometric accents. High tables and eye-popping red stools add to that teeming, close-packed energy (keeping to social distancing rules, of course). From the open kitchen comes a sizzling stream of classic tapas and paella, helmed by Abellán’s protégé Chef Carolina Garcia Santamaria.
Think Spanish tipples and sangria is probably the first thing that comes to mind. Tapas 24 does a fabulous sparkling Sangria de Cava (S$22/glass, S$68/jug), but there’s plenty more to their beverage program – a sprawling range of Spanish wines by the glass, G&Ts with dashes of Barcelonan flair, and easy-drinking Spanish street cocktails. For a hot day, think thirst-quenchers like El Rebujito (S$18/glass, S$58/jug) – a tangy Andalusian classic mixed with sherry, lemon-lime soda, and mint.
For more liquid refreshment, kick off your tapas fiesta with the Andalusian Gazpacho (S$14). This cold, creamy soup delivers a hit of garden-fresh goodness, pureed with Roma tomatoes, capsicums, cucumbers, and celery. We get to savour more Roma tomato sweetness by way of the crisp-toasted Pan Con Tomate (S$8). Simply slicked with fresh tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and sea salt, the crystal bread crackles satisfyingly undertooth.
Another toasty classic that hits the right notes is the iconic ‘Tapas 24’ Bikini Sandwich (S$16). You really can’t go wrong with toasted triangles layered with melty buffalo mozzarella, nutty Ibérico ham, and black truffle paste, but the gooey symphony in our mouth still stuns us.
Follow that up with the oozy delights of another signature, the Croquetas de Pollo (S$8). Unlike your usual minced meat croquetas, these crisp-breaded morsels feature pulled chicken slow-braised for 24 hours in homemade velouté, offering more bite while still melting in the mouth. ‘Oozy’ describes Tapas 24’s rendition of the Spanish omelet too, and it’s divine. Their Spanish Tortilla ‘Mallorcan Style’ (S$12) is an ultra-thick stack studded with confit potatoes, caramelized onions, and chorizo – slice it open to reveal its runny center.
Most of the tapas here are replicas from the Barcelonan menu, but there’re a couple of ‘healthier’ creations you’ll only find in Singapore – the Avocado Con Pesto (S$16), for one. A stint in the Josper grill takes this superfood’s creaminess to new, smoke-kissed heights, accented by a herbaceous slathering of pesto and feta. It’s a refreshing take in a cuisine big on deep-frying and red meat, but we’re told it’s fast become a bestseller. Another fresh creation for the Singapore menu, the Mató Con Tomate (S$14) pairs soft, milky Mató cheese with the umami punch of anchovies. Heap these on crisp toast with black olive tapenade and sundried tomatoes for a tart, briny explosion.
For a true whiff of the Mediterranean, there’s no forgetting the seafood. The Octopus Galician Style (S$22) is boiled to tenderness, dressed with olive oil and a very generous sprinkling of smoked paprika. Meanwhile, the Clams ‘Ajillo’ in Sherry (S$32) offers a twist on the popular gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) with fresh clams flambéed in sherry. Don’t forget to spoon up the broth – the marriage of briny clam juice with sweet, fresh artichokes is highly slurpable.
Besides these small plates, there’s a curation of larger sharing dishes too. If you’re in the mood to linger over nibbles, the ‘La Fusta’ of Spanish Sausages & Cheeses (S$52) is a hefty grazing platter of charcuterie, cheeses, red pepper jam, and crunchy breadsticks. But the star of any Spanish show belongs, of course, to the paella. Our Paella de Gambas al Ajillo (S$40) comes cooked in the Josper oven to smoky, velvety richness – though we would have liked a bit more of a crispy crust.
The dessert selection switches up, so be sure to check with the team for what’s available. For those who like their fromage funky, the Brie Cheesecake (S$18) is a potent slab of sharp, melty goodness suitable for two. If you don’t, stick with the likable Chocolate, Sea Salt with Virgin Olive Oil – chocolate mousse graced with olive oil and sea salt that’s perfect for scooping up with crisp bits of toast.
Tapas 24 is located at 60 Robertson Quay, #01-04 The Quayside, Singapore 238252, p. +65 6513 6810. Open Tues-Sat 12pm–11pm, Sun 11am–11pm. Closed Mon.
**During Singapore’s Phase 2 (Heightened Alert), Tapas 24 is available for islandwide delivery and takeaway daily 12pm–9pm via their ordering platform.
Top Image: Paella de Gambas al Ajillo
