Restaurant Review: Merci Marcel Brings French Communal Dining to Tiong Bahru, Singapore

PUBLISHED December 28th, 2017 06:00 am

In the last few years, the gentrification of Tiong Bahru was a cause for curiosity in the heritage neighbourhood, with hipster cafes and novelty stores popping up almost every week in the enclave. In recent months, however, the once booming area seemed a tad quieter, as new openings slowed and some older places shuttered. Thus it was intriguing to see an all-new French communal space spring up where the now-defunct Orange Thimble once stood – Merci Marcel, a charming new addition to the locality.

Upon entrance, we were greeted with a busy bar counter, as the crowd settled down in plush sofas and comfortable high chairs. Separated into three spaces, the lounge, café chic and garden patio, the entire spot is fashioned after Paris, with leafy greens hanging from the ceiling complementing white and coffee-toned furniture against a vivid warm palette. To the back, a glass panel ceiling washes the space sunlight in the day and cools the spot at night, similar to sitting alfresco but in air-conditioned comfort. Beyond the seats, shelves chock-full of artisanal products hailing from France are tucked away in corners for guests to browse.

Merci Marcel sure paints a pretty picture perfect for the ‘gram, and we were excited to find out if the food does the same in plating and taste. And while most would expect brunch usuals such as French toasts, waffles and salads, we found the gems to be in its dinner menu, which emphasises shared portions in creative tapas delights, sometimes with Asian twists.

A must-have starter is their modern take on the Duck Rillettes ($18++). Slightly gamey and silky, the folks behind Merci Marcel (who also own O’Batignolles Wine on Gemmill Lane) spread the rillette generously on the slice and top it with half-melted camembert cheese and marinated pears.

The sharp smell of cheese heralded the next dish’s arrival – the Ravioles de Royans ($18++), a particularly similar offering to the familiar ravioli hailing from the Dauphiné region in France. Topped and stuffed with Swiss Tête de Moine cheese, the small dumplings make for a true comfort, pasta-esque dish as each bite is a burst of flavour in your mouth.

If you’re one for seafood, try the Black Pepper Tuna ($25++) with yuzu and soy vinaigrette. Taking inspiration from the Land of the Rising Sun, the fish is crusted in black pepper and is half-cooked with a raw centre similar to Japanese tuna tataki (seared tuna), complementing the sour vinaigrette – a great savoury pick after the strong dishes before.

Meat lovers are not forgotten, and for them, Pork tenderloin ($24) with ginger and caramelised onions rounded out the mains will stand out. The sauce takes a Chinese spin with its ginger while maintaining Western influences in the caramelised onions, which gave the pork a distinct savoury tang that we thoroughly enjoyed. Ask for a bread basket to enjoy the leftover gravy.

And what is a French dinner without the accompanying cheese board? With a selection of farmhouse cheeses from artisanal producers in Europe, a selection of three varieties – goat, soft and hard – with Beillevaire butter and homemade chutney upon mixed bread stars from $24++. Amongst them, curds likes Comté 36-month, Morbier extra mature and Appenzeller are flown in weekly from Europe into the café’s larders. And if you like a number of kinds, get an assortment of five ($36++), as recommended by the team and depending on what is available in the Marcel Cheese & Charcuterie Corner.

With a fine selection of dishes and retail options, the buzz in the air as you dine at Merci Marcel makes us think this might be the place to bring dinners back to the Tiong Bahru district, which has so far remained a brunch spot on weekends. Open a bottle of  wine or two from the cellar (and if you enjoy O’Batignolles’ selection, you can be sure Merci Marcel has much of the same) as you slide into the comfy seats for an enjoyable meal to share.

Merci Marcel is located at 56 Eng Hoon Street, #01-68, Singapore 160056, p. +65 6224 0113. Opens Tue-Sat 8am – 11.30pm. Closed Sun.