Restaurant Review: Micasa Kitchen & Bar Is A Homely Spanish and Italian Gem in Bukit Timah, Singapore
PUBLISHED November 28th, 2020 05:03 pm
Mi casa es tu casa – the phrase is an Anglophile cliché by now, but the sentiment certainly holds true at Micasa Kitchen & Bar. Tucked unassumingly down Jalan Jurong Kechil, this Bukit Timah restaurant keeps regulars coming back for its homestyle Spanish and Italian grub, served up with plenty of heart.
Chef-owner Micah Lim honed his culinary chops at illustrious hotels like The Fullerton and Hilton Singapore under his belt, not to mention a year-long Paris sabbatical at Michelin-starred hotspot Le Sergent Recruteur. Upon his return in 2015, though, he veered off the fine-dining track and onto one closer to home – selling paella and tapas at a hawker stall in Bukit Timah Food Centre. Barely a year later, a chance came along to set up his own restaurant a few streets away – and of course, this self-dubbed ‘entrepreneur at heart’ seized it.
Despite cutting his teeth in fine dining, it’s home and its comforts that chef Micah aims to serve up with Micasa. With charmingly mismatched chairs and a no-frills vibe, Micasa is the kind of place you’d bring the fam for a dressed-down Saturday dinner. Decor comes by way of an eclectic array of knickknacks, amassed by Micah’s family through the years – knives from a Pakistan trip, animal figurines gifted by relatives, and even a potted tree from his mother’s first home. It feels just as rich with memories as home.
After four years of building a quiet following in the ‘hood, chef Micah launched an inaugural Chef’s Menu (S$268++ for four pax) last month. Drawing together the star dishes of the à la carte lineup, this limited-time menu goes smoky with four seafood and meat courses fresh off the grill. The Charred Wild Caught Squid (S$23 for à la carte) kicks off this protein-heavy slew, arriving well-charred, chewy, and drizzled with paprika oil. Squid ink mayonnaise dials up the brininess of this ocean gem.
All seafood here is sourced fresh from local kelongs and fishermen in the South China Sea – Micah hopes to showcase the qualities of regional seafood. And his XL Tiger Prawns (S$29/ three for à la carte) certainly does it right with a zichar-style take on Spanish shrimp gambas – think large, sweet prawns generously stuffed with garlic. Lemon vinaigrette adds a dab of brightness, while gochujang emulsion lends a satisfyingly pungent heat. Rounding off our trio of seafood dishes is a BBQ Spotted Grouper served whole. Crisp skin gives way to flaky, fairly moist flesh, best savoured with some surprisingly fiery caper-and-onion marmalade.
Each of the seafood plates are hearty enough in themselves, but along comes the pièce de résistance – a well-marbled slab of Wanderer Barley Fed Angus Beef Tomahawk (S$15/100g). Smoking over sugarcane bagasse gives the cut a trace of complex sweetness; a healthy sprinkling of black autumn truffle shavings takes it from fragrant to funky. If you’re looking for a wine to cut through the richness, the house red Il Palazzo Chianti 2017 does the job nicely – a dry Tuscan number with dried herb and deep cherry notes.
Dessert is thankfully light with a Panna Cotta layered with strawberry jam and shortbread crumble, but if you’ve found your second wind, it’s worth ordering up the Micasa Famous Churros (S$12) too. These dense, doughy sticks come with a luscious dip of dark chocolate, plus some tart lemon curd to perk up your palate.
While this set menu leans rather too heavily on surf and turf – we’d have liked more carbs and greens to balance out the courses – it’s a great show of grillsmanship from this neighbourhood gem. This chef’s menu we sampled was available only till November, but we look forward to what’s sizzling next.
Micasa Kitchen & Bar is located at 102C Jalan Jurong Kechil, #01-01, Singapore 598602, p. +65 6463 0263. Open Mon & Wed-Thurs 12pm–2pm and 6pm–9pm, Fri-Sun 11.30am–2pm and 5.30pm–9.30pm. Closed Tues.
Top Image: Wanderer Barley Fed Angus Beef Tomahawk
