Bar Review: Barbary Coast Along Boat Quay In Singapore Has Affordable Cocktails That Go By Colour

PUBLISHED January 28th, 2020 06:30 am | UPDATED May 18th, 2020 06:52 pm

It is difficult to write about Barbary Coast without skimping on the details, because there is so much about the place to see. If we had to describe the establishment in a sentence, we’d say it’s a dual-concept bar inspired by the San Francisco district of the same name during the bawdy, and sometimes bloody, mid-1800s California Gold Rush. Then again, that is all the two concepts have in common, because while the second floor is the kind of place where nouveau riche miners would hang out, the first floor is the kind that scrapes the bottom of the barrel. Both are fundamental institutions of the time, but they end up on opposite ends of the spectrum.

We start below at Deadfall with S$14 pre-batched cocktails that go by colour — an attempt at recreating the ethos of the original Deadfall bars littered throughout the namesake Barbary Coast, with a friendly atmosphere where even the impoverished and out-of-luck miners could afford a drink. Like the coloured, sweetened spirits served to their varied clientele, the drinks here run the gamut from redistilled G&Ts on steroids (Clear) to a strawberry lime vodka soda (Pink) that reminds us of childhood candy.

 

Upon each creation are lavished touches that take them beyond ordinary. At another cocktail bar, there’s a risk of being gimmicky, but the owners — industry veterans Celia Schoonraad and Michael Callahan are the people behind 28 HongKong Street — know what they are doing. For instance, the Green is a herbaceous concoction of Arquitecto tequila, watermelon syrup, grassy coriander, and “sonic-prepped” grapefruit Cointreau. The Yellow is one for fans of tepache, whose mix of Plantation rum and burnt pineapple husk syrup can sweeten anyone’s day.

We notice two beers on tap at a very affordable S$6 and S$10 nett, and currently, you will find Young Master’s Rye on Wood Ale and Contemporary Pilsner — two delicious staples from the award-winning Hong Kong brewery. Of course, the spirit of the original Deadfalls extends to the food menu. The TTW Sando (S$15), made with pastrami or smoked ham and duck-fried tater tots is the sandwich equivalent of a dirty, deeply comfortable sofa.

 

Then we go up to the Barbary Coast Ballroom, instantly feeling a lot more posh thanks to the lush parlour-style layout and opulent interiors — Celia tells us there are nine different patterns of wallpaper here. The old Ballrooms in the American Barbary Coast were run by female proprietors, or “madams”, which explains the more feminine feel of the place, from lavish chandeliers to plush vintage furnishings.

The Ballroom’s drinks are a model of charmingly inventive cocktails, and a tad more complex than what we find below. We love the Tommy Tomate (S$22), a margarita-inspired drink with tomato Mezcal Vida, kaffir agave, and lime that’s bumped up with umami.

Other breakout hits include potent One Inch Punch (S$24), the bar’s version of the Sazerac with Pierre Ferrand 1840 cognac and chicory rye for a spicy and smoky hit, and the exotic and strikingly aromatic Three Graces (S$22) that’s made with sage pisco, Fernet Hunter, rhubarb bitters, and a Madagascan vanilla acid blend. Still, it is the Tea with Raspberries and Cream (S$21) that’s the most fascinating — think a dainty pink thing that drinks like raspberry tea with the velvetiness of milk and the botanical flourish of gin.

While you’re up here, do yourself a solid and order any one of the cheeseboards, ranging from S$50 from Petite up to $145 for La Grand Dame. The chef takes a lot of care to the arrangement and array of cheese and charcuterie, and the meats (chicken galantine, duck toilette, and bresaola are just some to expect) are even all cured on site. Get the silky soft brie and whipped goat cheese with the rustic bread and smoked butter — it’s one of the best bites of the night.

Barbary Coast is located at 16 North Canal Rd, Singapore 048828. Open Mon 4pm – 1am, Tue-Wed 4pm – 2am, Thu-Sat 4pm – 3am. Closed Sun.