Earlier this year, Andaz Singapore welcomed new Chinese fine dining concept 5 ON 25 (五悦亭) in the space previously occupied by casual Chinese diner Wok and Steam. Transformed by Hong Kong-based interior architect André Fu, who also designed the hotel’s rooms and public spaces, it’ a a subtle nod to the old world charm of 1950s Singapore, full of rich colours and lush textures – a classy dining room perfect for a luxurious boozy weekend brunch, especially with a view of glittering skyscrapers and turn-of-century shophouses through the windows.
Featuring over 25 varieties of handcrafted dishes, the special a la carte weekend menu is crafted by Head Chef Lim Hong Lih (who cut his teeth with long stints at Li Bai and Summer Pavilion) and dim sum Chef Peh Teik Seong. For an additional S$78++ per person, enjoy free flow Delamotte Brut N.V. Champagne, alcoholic organic sparkling tea by the Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company, and selected bottled beers like their Andaz Pilsner.
Powerful but not aggressive, the bubbles has a supple roundness on the palate. Together with a clean and fruity finish, and a hint of citrus and white flowers on the nose, it’s great for cutting through the rich flavours to come. The Rød sparkling tea (5% ABV), with its slightly tannic character, is also delicious.
If you find yourself always reaching for the classics during yum cha, 5 ON 25’s Scallop Siew Mai and Shrimp Dumplings get an appropriate glow up with fish roe and winter bamboo shoots respectively. Those feeling adventurous should definitely try their Lemon Bacon Roll – it might be the first time I’d use the word ‘refreshing’ to describe a bacon-centric dish – and the surprisingly meaty Three Mushroom Vegetable Dumplings. All steamed dim sum mentioned above are priced at S$7.50 for three pieces, with the option to add on individual pieces to suit the dining party.
Amongst the deep fried items, Chef Lim’s Signature Deep Fried Duck Roll (S$12, three pieces) is a must. Served like a sliced crispy spring roll, the filling of diced duck, mushroom, Chinese turnip, and chilli sauce makes for a savoury, satisfying mouthful. While we enjoyed and appreciated the premium seafood and craftsmanship in the Shrimp and Cod Fish Beancurd Roll (S$3.50 per piece) that was also fried to golden perfection), we miss that burst of flavour and juices that usually comes with the first bite of anything stuffed.
Chef Lim’s take on Chinese cold chicken comes in the Shredded Chicken with Sesame Sauce (S$12) served with a modern touch of rice crisps. It’s worth a try, especially for those who love their nutty sauces, but if you don’t have room, we suggest heading straight for the Fried Rice with Wagyu Beef and Truffle Sauce (S$38). It might sound like a lot, but a precise hand balanced all the rich elements perfectly – you couldn’t find a better contemporary fried rice.
Just when it seemed that the creative force is present in every dish, 5 ON 25 sticks to tradition when it comes to another staple on dim sum menus everywhere. Served with traditional condiments, the Congee with Seafood (S$12) is loaded with enough prawns and fish slices to keep things interesting – but not too much, to the point one can also enjoy the effort to deliver the velvety, belly-warming congee.
For dessert, their Hot Sweetened Almond Tea (S$12) is a winner, particularly with the black sesame glutinous rice ball. Or get out of your comfort zone with a serve of the Chocolate Wu Liang Ye (S$8) ice cream, which features a small shot of China’s prized baijiu made with five types of grain.
5 on 25 is located at Level 25, Andaz Singapore, 5 Fraser Street, Singapore 189354, p. +65 6408 1228. Weekend brunch available Saturdays and Sundays, 12pm to 2.30pm.
Emily heads the editorial team on City Nomads by being a stickler for details, a grammar Nazi, and a really picky eater. Born and bred in Singapore, she loves cats, the written word, and exploring new places. Can be bribed with quality booze across the board.