Gastrobar Review: Heart Of Darkness Hops Over To Keong Saik With Beer Cocktails And A Bigger Food Menu
PUBLISHED September 26th, 2020 05:00 am | UPDATED October 1st, 2020 10:15 am
Barflies hopping along Keong Saik Road now have one more pitstop in their boozy voyage. Turning the page on their Tras Street taproom, Heart of Darkness has just opened a new chapter in the space long-occupied by Neon Pigeon. With a bigger space comes bolder offerings from this offshoot of the Vietnam-based brewery – a fuller-fledged food lineup with more global flavours, plus a funky beer cocktail program.
The space is just as gritty and laidback as ever, with exposed brickwork and all-round industrial-chic vibes. Where Neon Pigeon’s iconic pigeon graffiti once sprawled, a stunning mural of a Merlion and dragon slithers, the two intertwined to represent the colla-beer-ation between Singapore and Vietnam. The most striking change, though, might be the gleaming row of taps behind the bar – an impressive 25 of them.
Besides Heart of Darkness’ core range – cold-chained from Saigon – the rotation stays fresh with limited releases and collaboration beers with regional breweries. One collab-brew that proved a hit with our table, for instance, was the Creatures of Darkness Jam Doughnut – an IPA made in partnership with the hopheads at Little Creatures Singapore. With a malty backbone jammed with tangy raspberry and watermelon notes, this silky brew is the doughy treat in liquid form.
Beer cocktails are still a rare breed in local bars, much less one like the 14-strong program crafted around Heart of Darkness brews from pilsners to porters. Created by Head Bartender Mark Ng, each cocktail here puts a hoppy spin on your familiar classics. The Futile Logic (S$19), for one, amps up a typical Southside with Futile Purpose Cucumber Pilsner and a sesame-encrusted cucumber garnish, and the resulting tipple bursts with refreshing crispness.
Meanwhile, the Reverse Boilermaker (S$21) hops up a Gold Rush with a citrusy ‘shot’ of The Island India Pale Lager. Lager-infused honey and a beer-flavoured meringue add to this deliciously complex balance of sweetness and tartness. Even if you’re not a cocktail person, the menu alone is worth the read – let’s just say the descriptions, drawing on key moments from Joseph Conrad’s titular novel, can get pretty dramatic.
The revamped food offerings are far from mere stomach-liners. Expanding on the previous Vietnamese-centric lineup, the menu has fusional bites for every kind of drunk munchies. Take the Romesco Hummus (S$10), a playful cross between the Middle Eastern dip and Spain’s peppery, garlicky tomato-based sauce. Scoop it up with fine, light crisps of crystal bread for a smoky bomb of flavours. Another creative tapas is the Octopus Croquettes (S$14), a satisfying take on takoyaki – think béchamel croquettes breaded tonkatsu-style, then topped with mayo and bonito flakes.
A warning sign should be mandatory for the Wings of Darkness (S$14) – these innocuous-looking chicken wings pack an unholy punch. Spiced with both habanero and jalapeño peppers, then doused with a drizzle of blue cheese cream, the wings sneak up on you with a slow, lingering burn. Quench the heat with a briny burst of Beer-Marinated Olives (S$8), mixed with sweet orange slices and house pickles.
There’s a heavier range of seafood and meats to pair with your pint as well. The Fish & Chips Taco (S$18) gives the English classic a cheeky update with tender beer-battered fish slicked with tartar sauce and minty guacamole. Razor-thin matchstick potatoes complete the equation, all handily wrapped in a corn tortilla. For something meatier, the Wagyu Tri-Tip (S$38) is a thick, flavourful cut served with deliciously fluffy thick-cut fries.
Dining at a beer bar usually means liquid dessert, but for the sweet tooths, Marlow’s Mellow (S$14) is an equally heady option. This Basque burnt cheesecake is a pleasant balance between firm and melty, laced with fruity hints thanks to Marlow’s Mellow Pomelo IPA. Of course, that doesn’t mean we’re leaving without one last pint.
Heart of Darkness Singapore is located at 1 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089109, p. +65 6208 7940. Open Mon 4pm–12am, Tues-Sun 12pm–12am.
