Restaurant Review: Big Sake Bar Brings Izakaya Fare to Beach Road, Singapore
PUBLISHED December 14th, 2017 11:16 am
Singapore is no stranger to the izakaya concept: cosy spaces filled with noisy chatter amidst some tasteful Japanese decor – perhaps even a noren (traditional fabric dividers commonly seen in restaurants) or two. There is usually bottle upon bottle of sakes on one wall, their minimalist labels reflecting whatever light comes out from the dim lamps strewn around the establishment. These are the places we go to for an hour or two of respite from the realities of life, and you know, the substandard conveyor belt sushi.
The one-year-old Big Sake Bar along Beach Road is such a place. Marked by a large “大” (the kanji character for big) outside the entrance, you walk in and reaffirm all your preconceived notions. You are greeted by a member of the friendly staff, and perhaps Chef Andy Quek, if he’s not too busy slicing up fish for the growing crowd.
We are offered the new eight-course omakase menu – a friendly $88 nett per person, or $108 nett if you, like us, are suckers for a lovely carafe of sake. One of the owners, Daniel, brings out three relatively diverse options for us to choose from. There’s the mellow Toyo Bijin (or Asian Beauty), a mostly neutral but gloriously well-rounded junmai daiginjo, the fairly sweet Nabeshima “Pink Label” tokubetsu honjozo with a slight effervescence and delicate floral notes, and a very dry Masumi’s Karakuchi Ki-ippon with subtle sweet undertones.
With some three and a half years of experience at The Sushi Bar in Ngee Ann City and Far East Plaza under his belt, Andy is fairly competent at Japanese cuisine. His Century Egg Tofu, a common starter served at Japanese restaurants, employs homemade silken tofu that he makes from fresh soy milk. The diced egg jelly is rich and silky, accentuated with bits of crispy tempura batter and spring onion strips. Then, a warm sophisticated Miso Soup made with briny Asari clams.
There is, of course, an Assorted Sashimi Platter – a well-torched slice of salmon belly, fresh yellowtail, swordfish, and Canadian botan ebi, naturally pink, clear, and very sweet. You will love the plate of finely-sliced A4 Wagyu Sirloin from Kagoshima, abundantly marbled and lightly seared. The same beef is later used for a hand-rolled Wagyu Maki sushi that’s made with unpolished Yume Obako rice from Akita prefecture, one of Japan’s best rice-growing regions.
If you like fatty tuna, the Negitoro Don is a large hit of minced tender otoro that, basically, leaves you wanting for more. Topped with quail egg, it’s a classic dish that while seemingly simple, requires quite a bit of skill – chopping, balance, and all. After that, you are left with a glaringly plain dessert: a scoop of yuzu or goma (black sesame) ice cream. Nothing fancy, no wasabi or soy sauce flavours, and certainly no ice cream mochi – which is the best thing ever, by the way.
Still, while Big Sake Bar dishes out very acceptable Japanese fare at decent prices, it might be even more attractive for sake enthusiasts with more than 49 labels on offer. Not sure what to get? Ask for a taste and they’ll gladly oblige.
Big Sake Bar is located at 302 Beach Rd #01-02, Singapore 199600, p. +65 6291 2700. Open Mon-Sat 5pm – 12am.
