Review: Gary’s Restaurant Pairs Traditional Italian Flavours with Japanese Influences at Rochester Park, Singapore
PUBLISHED June 14th, 2022 06:00 am | UPDATED October 17th, 2024 08:37 pm
A hot melting pot of blended cuisines and creativity, gourmands will find almost anything and everything they’re looking for in Singapore. Charming us with old school hospitality, an intimate dining setting, and modern minimalist interiors, Gary’s is adding its own twist to the curious flavours of Italian-Japanese cuisine in Singapore’s never-not robust gastronomic scene.
Tucked amidst surrounding flora of Rochester Park, Taiwanese-Singaporean Chef Gary Wu’s new eponymous restaurant is a peaceful escape. With almost three decades of experience in the industry – including a stint as sous chef in now one-Michelin star Italian restaurant, Buona Terra – he’s set up a space where heritage and modern elements blend seamlessly. Inside the colonial bungalow, you’ll find white tablecloths, minimalist white and black detailing and a gorgeous marble bar.
Versatile enough for dates or meetings with a client, there’s an alfresco area for a more casual laid-back vibe and to unwind with a glass of wine. The lauded chef can also be seen working his magic in the kitchen with his team through the glass window in the first level, putting up reimaginations of Italian fine cuisine with a Japanese sensibility.
We begin the evening with the chewy but tender Grilled Spanish Octopus Leg (S$38). Served with a creamy earthy truffle potato cream, and spicy salsa with arugula and parsley, the perfect texture of the octopus was achieved by slow-cooking sous vide before finishing it on the grill oven. The Cold Angel Hair Pasta followed next, and believe us when we say we finished it in just three bites. Utterly buttery, the al dente pasta is complemented by umami wakame and luxurious lashings of caviar.
Equally unpretentious is the Carbonara (S$26). Unlike the thick and rich sauces loaded with creams and egg yolks (that we’re familiar with), Chef Gary uses a pasteurised egg sauce that is light yet creamy to complement the spaghetti pasta. The best part? The crispy Iberico chip on the side, which added just a right amount of saltiness to the meal. A sprinkle of parmigiano and a drizzle of truffle oil completes the dish.
Amongst the robust seafood and meat offerings, we opted for the Stuffed Seabass (S$36) and the Lamb Rack (S$48). The seabass is a soft delicate delight, effortlessly paired with grilled seasonal vegetables for a balanced mouthfeel. Nonetheless, the star of the show is easily the spicy tomato sauce, that tangoes on the tastebuds and give the dish a harmonious blend. On the other hand, the lamb rack came slightly tough and chewy for us, even as the dish came together with mushrooms, baby corn, asparagus and polenta.
For a sweet ending, look no further than the oh-so-indulgent Tiramisu (S$14). A sweet seduction, grounded by the aftertaste of Kahlua coffee liqueur, the texture of this was so smooth we thought we were having a mousse instead.
Gary’s Restaurant is located at 41 Rochester Drive, Singapore 138582, p. +65 89 200200. Open daily 11am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm. Set lunches available on weekdays, excluding public holidays, from S$38++ per person.
