Bar Review: Bar Milano Brings the Italian Bistro Life to Keong Saik Road, Singapore
PUBLISHED August 11th, 2020 12:29 am
“My nuts are soft,” one of my dining companions commented just as I took a sip of my delicious Italian Bloody Mary (S$19) at the newly opened Bar Milano on Keong Saik Road. Despite a slight choking fit, I managed to keep the incredibly savoury down since so much goes into their rendition of the classic vodka-based brunch cocktail at this modern Italian bistro and bar – think French-press San Marzano tomatoes, olive brine, celery salt, and a kick of smoked paprika.
Despite the lack of confidence from the nuts (she was referring to the saucer of assorted nuts on the table that might have been left out a tad too long), there was unanimous approval of the Olives Ascolana (S$10).Stuffed with a filling of pork, onion and celery, these breaded and deep fried babies are addictive and pair well too with The Cipriani Bellini (S$19). Those who want something sweet and refreshing should look elsewhere; made with housemade white peach puree and maraschino liqueur, this tipple has a denser texture than the usual, though we would have preferred the use of a drier prosecco.
Lovingly drizzled with 25-year aged balsamic vinegar and a topping of fresh basil, Burrata & Peaches (S$28) lets the ingredients speak for themselves. With the price point in mind though, we’d recommend the Steak Tartare ($18) on sourdough instead. The use of anchovy cream harkens to Piedmontese bagna càuda (a dip made from anchovies and garlic), which lends punchy and umami flavours to the lean cut used. Thoroughly enjoyable despite the heavier, and wetter texture.
Diners will find more northern Italian influences with Bar Milano’s nine-inch Pizza Fritta. As much as we love the idea of fried pizza, our Napolitano (S$18) was a disappointment because it got soggy really quickly due to the chilled San Marzano tomato base and buffalo mozzarella. You might be better off with the Truffle Mushroom (S$24) with shaved truffles and fried egg. The Chicken Milanese (S$22) was a winner with its side of apple & fennel coleslaw that offset the texture and mouthfeel of the flattened breaded chicken cutlet.
Our spritz life started a while ago with Caffe Fernet, at a time where Aperol was doing plenty of marketing to encourage daytime drinking in sunny Singapore. Unfortunately, Bar Milano’s spritzes lacked the balance to counter the ice dilution rate with their open concept. The best flavour payoffs were delivered by the red wine-based Lambrusco Spritz (S$20) with a house-made cherry syrup and the Rinomato Spritz (S$23) accentuated with a rosemary and black pepper tincture.
Sweet treats we’d recommend at Bar Milano include the Carrot & Walnut Cheese Cake (S$10) – the middle layer of frosting prevents it from drying out – and the Cioccolata Al Cremino (S$9). Sweet and chocolaty, the latter feature Nutella mousse, Italian meringue, vanilla ice cream, and amaretti for extra nuttiness. If you prefer to have your dessert and drink it too, the Spiked Frappuccino (S$20), concocted with housemade vanilla bean syrup, spiced rum, and blended fresh coffee, is perfect.
Since we visited less than two weeks after opening, we chalk the inconsistencies to teething issues, but we highly welcome an all-day drinking spot on Keong Saik Road – don’t you?
Bar Milano is located at 55 Keong Saik Road #01-02, Singapore 089158. Open 10am-10.30pm daily.
Top Image: Truffle Mushroom Pizza Fritta
