Restaurant Review: Yue Bai, A Modern Chinese Restaurant Where Gastronomy Meets Art On Duxton Road, Singapore
PUBLISHED January 23rd, 2023 05:00 am | UPDATED January 31st, 2023 10:19 pm
With a smorgasbord of food and drink options in Singapore, there’s no shortage of Chinese cuisine around the island. However, for Chinese food that combines gastronomy, art and philosophy, there is only Yue Bai.
Yue Bai redefines good eating with traditional Chinese dietary therapy, though far from the sharp bitterness of traditional Chinese herbs or the rigidness of health diets. Co-Owner and Chef Lee Hongwei expresses healthy and nourishing food as a gastronomical delight by drawing on the principles from the ancient Chinese medical text – Huang Di Nei Jing (黄帝内经).
Aligned with the Chinese calendar, the menu goes beyond the seasonal availability of ingredients, nourishing and enhancing the body to meet the environmental elements of the season. Much like how we would reach for a warm beverage on a cold winter’s day, a nourishing warm meal at Yue Bai during the cool months would help to balance and warm our bodies.
Embodying its culinary philosophy, the elegant restaurant vibes of a contemporary Chinese teahouse. The soothing colour tones evokes the soft ethereal glow of moonlight, while the oak panels and purposefully placed foliage impresses with a serene garden-like atmosphere. Works of Chinese cultural arts are found around the restaurant, from an excerpt from Huang Di Nei Jing on the wall to a modern Chinese painting by Singaporean artist Goh Beng Kwan in the private dining room.
Besides art in its decor, Chef Lee sees cooking as an art form, evident in dishes that combine gastronomy, art and the principles of dietary therapy. In the selection of appetisers, the Crispy Burdock with Sesame and Spice Powder (S$14) are incredibly addictive with its crunch and piquant flavour. That’s no problem either, because this sweet earthy vegetable has a high fibre content and lowers blood sugar.
It’s followed by the refreshing Roselle Flower-infused Winter Melon (S$12), which also acted as a palate cleanser. Roselle is known to reduce cholesterol and blood pressure. In this delicate dish, sweet and sour juices ooze out with every bite, further whetting the appetite.
Chef Lee recreates a classic Teochew dish with Australian Lamb Jelly, Black Bean and Passion Fruit-infused Pumpkin (S$22). Instead of its usual chilli dip, Chef Lee balances the “heat” from lamb and black bean with the fruit infused shredded pumpkin, which also regulates blood circulation. Lamb warms the kidney and boosts the yang energy. A winning dish that’s tender and melt in the mouth, without the usual gamey aromas of lamb.
Don’t miss the Crisp-fried Pork Cartilage, Xin Hui Orange Sauce, Crispy Tofu Ring (S$38), an elevated take on the local favourite, sweet and sour pork. The use of mandarin peels gives this dish a fresh and fruity flavour, and its citrusy notes cut through the richness of pork cartilage. While its invigorating flavours fill our mouths, we learnt that pork cartilage provides collagen and mandarin peel nourishes our spleen and lungs.
Soaked in Goodness
The meal’s highlight is the Braised Hokkien Hutou Vermicelli ($35). Inspired by his childhood memories, Chef Lee braises the Hutou rice vermicelli (the same as used by his grandmother) with abalone, sea cucumber, Chinese mushrooms, Chinese chives, and beansprouts in premium chicken stock. Every strand of vermicelli soaked up the goodness of the ingredients; when complemented with Henghwa’s first harvest of black seaweed and crumbled dried sole fish, the rich umami had us slurping it down to the last bit.
The soft House-made Beancurd with Hashima ($38) was a fitting dessert. Instead of honey or syrup, pi pa gao syrup was served on the side, lending an interesting minty flavour to good old beancurd. Here, Chef Lee replaces gypsum powder with gelatin, as gypsum powder has a cold nature, staying true to the culinary philosophy of Yue Bai.
Yue Bai is located at 33 Duxton Rd, Singapore 089497, p. +65 9721 8055. Open Tue-Sun 11.45am-3pm, 5.45pm -10pm. Closed Mon.
