Restaurant Review: Chef Bjorn Shen’s Artichoke In Singapore Is Still Not Dead
PUBLISHED December 31st, 2019 06:30 am
Chef Bjorn Shen’s Artichoke is one of those restaurants that continually refuses to celebrate Valentine’s Day and Christmas. Yet nine years on, it is still not dead. Instead, the music is blaring too loud, the crowds too rowdy into the night, and the decor too eclectic for a slow evening out.
Imagine Malabi-style avocado pudding with passionfruit ice and bacon chops on toast on the weekends, all served to a backdrop of 60s soul and 90s hip-hop. We wouldn’t expect anything less from an eatery established and helmed by this firebrand of a chef. Bjorn, who’s been hailed as Singapore’s most rebellious chef and the pioneer of “dudestronomy”, is all about going against culinary convention.
Like always, Artichoke continues to be the least authentic Middle Eastern restaurant in town with a menu that, like Bjorn’s personality, doesn’t stop evolving. One of his new dishes is a briny plate of Sea Asparagus (S$12) that’s tossed with shallot oil and pickled garlic, then served with labneh and crispy fried buckwheat. It’s a fairly common mezze in parts of the Middle East.
Then, there’s a glorious Turkish Eggplant (S$12) that gives imam bayildi (the iconic eggplant dish) a run for its money. Turkish eggplants are halved and stuffed with onions and tomatoes, then confit and deep-fried to create layered dimensions on your palate.
Other recent creations include a divinely tender Cuttlefish Shawarma (S$25) that adopts the Mangal style of grilling (suspended naked over flame) with strong notes of turmeric, cumin, and coriander, and a Steak Of The Day — Australian Black Angus rump cap, for us. Ramped up with zhug, a sort of hot green chilli pesto, and torum, a pungent garlic aioli, the whole thing oozes Middle Eastern ‘cool’.
Even the mainstays remain fresh and creative. The Hummus & Iraqi Spiced Mushrooms (S$14) get a boost with an evolved hummus (blended with blanched chickpeas, and cumin) and locally-farmed mushrooms (from Kin Yan Agrotech) that’ve been seasoned in a leavened thyme spice mix, then garnished with toasted black sesame, smoked paprika, and a vinegary tahini. It’s vegan too.
You’ll know when it’s time for dessert, because the dessert kitchen bell is a rubber chicken that crows bloody murder. The aforementioned Malabi (S$16) returns for its third iteration: passionfruit granita and Thai basil leaves lend a more Asian feel, topped up with an avocado pudding that’s set with corn starch.
Count us a big fan of Baklava Cheesecake (S$22), especially since it’s two of our favourite things in one. The texture is creamy and the taste fairly sweet, speckled with toasted pistachios, orange blossom honey, a rhubarb and lemon syrup, and buttery kataifi pastry. It’s daring, supreme, and fitting of Bjorn’s take-no-prisoners approach to food — inspired by the movie, You Don’t Mess with the Zohan, of all things.
Artichoke is located at 161 Middle Rd, Singapore 188978 +65 6336 6949. Open Tue-Sun 4pm – 6pm, 6pm – 9.45pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am – 2.45pm. Closed Sun.
